Bedienungsanleitung Brother Innov-is XP1 (Seite 73 von 236) (Englisch)

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CHANGING THE NEEDLE

Sewing Basics

Fabric/Thread/Needle Combinations

• Needles that can be used with this machine: Home sewing machine needles (size 65/9 - 100/16)

* The larger the number, the larger the needle. As the numbers decrease, the needles get finer.

• Thread that can be used with this machine: 30 - 90 weight

* Never use thread of 20 weight or lower. It may cause machine to malfunction.

* The smaller the number, the heavier the thread. As the numbers increase, the thread gets finer.

• The machine needle and thread that should be used depends on the type and thickness of the fabric. Refer to

the following table when choosing the thread and needle appropriate for the fabric that you wish to sew.

- The combinations shown in the table provide a general guideline. Be sure to sew trial stitches on the actual number of

layers and type of fabric to be used in your project.

- The machine needles are consumables. For safety and best results, we recommend replacing the needle regularly. For

details on when to replace the needle, refer to “CHANGING THE NEEDLE” on page 69.

• In principle, use a fine needle and thread with lightweight fabrics, and a larger needle and heavier thread with

heavyweight fabrics.

• Select a stitch appropriate for the fabric, and then adjust the stitch length. When sewing lightweight fabrics,

make the stitch length finer (shorter). When sewing heavyweight fabrics, make the stitch length coarser

(longer). (page 86)

When sewing stretch fabrics, refer to “Sewing Stretch Fabrics” on page 84.

■ Transparent nylon thread

Use a home sewing machine topstitching needle, regardless of the fabric or thread.

■ Embroidery needles

Use a 75/11 home sewing machine needle for embroidery.

Fabric Type/Application

Thread

Size of needle

Stitch length

mm (inch)

Type Weight

Lightweight

fabrics

Lawn, georgette, challis, organdy,

crepe, chiffon, voile, gauze, tulle,

lining, etc.

Polyester

thread

60 - 90

65/9 - 75/11

Fine stitches

1.8-2.5

(1/16-3/32)

Cotton thread,

Silk thread

50 - 80

Medium weight

fabrics

Broadcloth, taffeta, gabardine,

flannel, seersucker, double gauze,

linen, terry cloth, waffle weave,

sheeting, poplin, cotton twill, satin,

quilting cotton, etc.

Polyester

thread

60 - 90

75/11 - 90/14

Regular stitches

2.0-3.0

(1/16-1/8)

Cotton thread,

Silk thread

50 - 60

Heavyweight

fabrics

Denim (12 ounces or more), canvas,

etc.

Polyester

thread,

Cotton thread

30 100/16

Coarse stitches

2.5-4.0

(3/32-3/16)

Denim (12 ounces or more), canvas,

tweed, corduroy, velour, melton

wool, vinyl-coated fabric, etc.

Polyester

thread

90/14 - 100/16

Cotton thread,

Silk thread

30 - 50

Stretch fabrics

(knit fabrics, etc.)

Jersey, tricot, T-shirt fabric, fleece,

interlock, etc.

Polyester thread,

Cotton thread,

Silk thread

Ball point needle

75/11 - 90/14

Setting appropriate for

the fabric thickness

For top-stitching

Polyester thread,

Cotton thread

30 90/14 - 100/16

Setting appropriate for

the fabric thickness

50 - 60 75/11 - 90/14

CAUTION

• The appropriate fabric, thread and needle combinations are shown in the preceding table. If the

combination of the fabric, thread and needle is not correct, particularly when sewing heavy fabrics (such

as denim) with thin needles (such as 65/9 to 75/11), the needle may bend or break. In addition, the

stitching may be uneven or puckered or there may be skipped stitches.

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