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safe. If your bicycle has such a sight hole, use it instead of
the “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum Extension” mark
to make sure the seat post is inserted in the seat tube far
enough to be visible through the sight hole.
If your bike has an interrupted seat tube, as is the case on
some suspension bikes, you must also make sure that the
seat post is far enough into the frame so that you can touch
it through the bottom of the interrupted seat tube with the
tip of your finger without inserting your finger beyond its first
knuckle. Also see NOTE above and fig. 5).
WARNING: If your seat post is not inserted in the seat
tube as described in B.1 above, the seat post may
break, which could cause you to lose control and fall.
2. Front and back adjustment. The saddle can be
adjusted forward or back to help you get the optimal
position on the bike. Ask your dealer to set the saddle for
your optimal riding position and to show you how to make
this adjustment. If you choose to make your own front and
back adjustment, make sure that the clamp mechanism is
clamping on the straight part of the saddle rails and is not
touching the curved part of the rails, and that you are using
the recommended torque on the clamping fastener(s)
(Appendix D or the manufacturer’s instructions).
3. Saddle angle adjustment. Most people prefer a horizontal saddle; but some riders
like the saddle nose angled up or down just a little. Your dealer can adjust saddle angle
or teach you how to do it. If you choose to make your own saddle angle adjustment and
you have a single bolt saddle clamp on your seat post, it is critical that you loosen the
clamp bolt sufficiently to allow any serrations on the mechanism to disengage before
changing the saddle’s angle, and then that the serrations fully re-engage before you
tighten the clamp bolt to the recommended torque (Appendix D or the manufacturer’s
instructions).
WARNING: When making saddle angle adjustments with a single bolt saddle
clamp, always check to make sure that the serrations on the mating surfaces of
the clamp are not worn. Worn serrations on the clamp can allow the saddle to move,
causing you to lose control and fall.
Always tighten fasteners to the correct torque. Bolts that are too tight can stretch
and deform. Bolts that are too loose can move and fatigue. Either mistake can lead to a
sudden failure of the bolt, causing you to lose control and fall.
Note: If your bicycle is equipped with a suspension seat post, the suspension
mechanism may require periodic service or maintenance. Ask your dealer for
recommended service intervals for your suspension seat post.
If your crotch touches the frame, the bike is too big
for you. Don’t even ride the bike around the block. A
bike which you ride only on paved surfaces and never
take off-road should give you a minimum standover
height clearance of two inches (5 cm). A bike that
you’ll ride on unpaved surfaces should give you a
minimum of three inches (7.5 cm) of standover height
clearance. And a bike that you’ll use off road should
give you four inches (10 cm) or more of clearance.
2. Step-through frame bicycles
Standover height does not apply to bicycles with
step-through frames. Instead, the limiting dimension
is determined by saddle height range. You must be
able to adjust your saddle position as described in B without exceeding the limits set
by the height of the top of the seat tube and the ”Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
Extension” mark on the seat post.
B. Saddle position
Correct saddle adjustment is an important factor in getting the most performance and
comfort from your bicycle. If the saddle position is not comfortable for you, see your dealer.
The saddle can be adjusted in three directions:
1. Up and down adjustment. To check for correct saddle height (fig. 3):
• sit on the saddle;
• place one heel on a pedal;
• rotate the crank until the pedal with your heel on it is in the down position and the
crank arm is parallel to the seat tube.
If your leg is not completely straight, your saddle height needs to be adjusted. If your
hips must rock for the heel to reach the pedal, the saddle is too high. If your leg is bent at
the knee with your heel on the pedal, the saddle is too low.
Ask your dealer to set the saddle for your optimal
riding position and to show you how to make this
adjustment. If you choose to make your own saddle
height adjustment:
loosen the seat post clamp
raise or lower the seat post in the seat tube
make sure the saddle is straight fore and aft
re-tighten the seat post clamp to the
recommended torque (Appendix D or the
manufacturer’s instructions).
Once the saddle is at the correct height, make
sure that the seat post does not project from the
frame beyond its “Minimum Insertion” or “Maximum
Extension” mark (fig. 4).
NOTE: Some bicycles have a sight hole in the seat tube, the purpose of which is to
make it easy to see whether the seat post is inserted in the seat tube far enough to be
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