Bedienungsanleitung Burley Bicycle (Seite 16 von 27) (Englisch)

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no obstacles, hazards or other trafﬁc, until you’ve built up your conﬁdence. Learn to

anticipate the need to shift, and shift to a lower gear before the hill gets too steep. If you

have difﬁculties with shifting, the problem could be mechanical adjustment. See your

dealer for help.

c. What if it won’t shift gears?

If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth shift to the

next gear chances are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the bike to your

dealer to have it adjusted.

E. Pedals

1. Toe Overlap is when your toe can touch the front wheel when you turn the

handlebars to steer while a pedal is in the forwardmost position. This is common on

small-framed bicycles, and is avoided by keeping the inside pedal up and the outside

pedal down when making sharp turns. On any bicycle, this technique will also prevent the

inside pedal from striking the ground in a turn.

WARNING: Toe Overlap could cause you to lose control and fall. Ask your dealer to

help you determine if the combination of frame size, crank arm length, pedal design

and shoes you will use results in pedal overlap. Whether you have overlap or not, you

must keep the inside pedal up and the outside pedal down when making sharp turns.

2. Some bicycles come equipped with pedals that have sharp and potentially dangerous

surfaces. These surfaces are designed to add safety by increasing grip between the

rider’s shoe and the pedal. If your bicycle has this type of high-performance pedal, you

must take extra care to avoid serious injury from the pedals’ sharp surfaces. Based on

your riding style or skill level, you may prefer a less aggressive pedal design, or chose

to ride with shin pads. Your dealer can show you a number of options and make suitable

recommendations.

3. Toeclips and straps are a means to keep feet correctly positioned and engaged

with the pedals. The toeclip positions the ball of the foot over the pedal spindle, which

gives maximum pedaling power. The toe strap, when tightened, keeps the foot engaged

throughout the rotation cycle of the pedal. While toeclips and straps give some beneﬁt

with any kind of shoe, they work most effectively with cycling shoes designed for use with

toeclips. Your dealer can explain how toeclips and straps work. Shoes with deep treaded

soles or welts which might make it more difﬁcult for you to insert or remove your foot

should not be used with toeclips and straps.

WARNING: Getting into and out of pedals with toeclips and straps requires skill

which can only be acquired with practice. Until it becomes a reﬂex action, the

technique requires concentration which can distract your attention and cause you to

lose control and fall. Practice the use of toeclips and straps where there are no

obstacles, hazards or trafﬁc. Keep the straps loose, and don’t tighten them until your

technique and conﬁdence in getting in and out of the pedals warrants it. Never ride in

trafﬁc with your toe straps tight.

but easy enough to let you start from a stop without wobbling — and experiment with

upshifting and downshifting to get a feel for the different gear combinations. At ﬁrst,

practice shifting where there are no obstacles, hazards or other trafﬁc, until you’ve built

up your conﬁdence. Learn to anticipate the need to shift, and shift to a lower gear before

the hill gets too steep. If you have difﬁculties with shifting, the problem could be mechanical

adjustment. See your dealer for help.

WARNING: Never shift a derailleur onto the largest or the smallest sprocket if

the derailleur is not shifting smoothly. The derailleur may be out of adjustment

and the chain could jam, causing you to lose control and fall.

e. What if it won’t shift gears?

If moving the shift control one click repeatedly fails to result in a smooth shift to the

next gear chances are that the mechanism is out of adjustment. Take the bike to your

dealer to have it adjusted.

2. How an internal gear hub drivetrain works

If your bicycle has an internal gear hub drivetrain, the gear changing mechanism will

consist of:

• a 3, 5, 7, 8, 12 speed or possibly an inﬁnitely variable internal gear hub

• one, or sometimes two shifters

• one or two control cables

• one front sprocket called a chainring

• a drive chain

a. Shifting internal gear hub gears

Shifting with an internal gear hub drivetrain is simply a matter of moving the shifter to

the indicated position for the desired gear ratio. After you have moved the shifter to the

gear position of your choice, ease the pressure on the pedals for an instant to allow the

hub to complete the shift.

b. Which gear should I be in?

The numerically lowest gear (1) is for the

steepest hills. The numerically largest gear is for

the greatest speed.

Shifting from an easier, “slower” gear (like 1)

to a harder, “faster” gear (like 2 or 3) is called an

upshift. Shifting from a harder, “faster” gear to an

easier, “slower” gear is called a downshift. It is

not necessary to shift gears in sequence. Instead,

ﬁnd the “starting gear” for the conditions — a gear

which is hard enough for quick acceleration but

easy enough to let you start from a stop without

wobbling — and experiment with upshifting

and downshifting to get a feel for the different

gears. At ﬁrst, practice shifting where there are

Burley Bicycle Seite 16

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