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ENGLISH
4
Figure 1-1 AstroMaster 90 EQ Refractor
1. Telescope Optical Tube 9. Latitude Adjustment Screw
2. Dovetail Mounting Bracket 10. Accessory Tray
3. RA. Setting Circle 11. Tripod
4. Star Pointer Finderscope 12. Counterweight Bar
5. Eyepiece 13. Counterweights
6. Diagonal 14. Equatorial Mount
7. Focus Knob 15. Dec. Slow Motion Cable
8. R.A. Slow Motion Cable 16. Objective Lens
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Figure 2-17 Figure 2-18
Dec. Lock Knob on top of Dec.
circle & R.A. Lock Knob on top
of R.A. circle
Mounting Knob & Safety Screw in the
dovetail bracket Shown is the 114 EQ
telescope tube
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The diagonal is a prism that diverts the light at a right angle to the light path
of the refractor. This allows you to observe in a position that is more
comfortable than if you looked straight through. This diagonal is an erect
image model that corrects the image to be right side up and oriented correctly
left-to-right which is much easier to use for terrestrial observing. Also, the
diagonal can be rotated to any position which is most favorable for you. To
install the diagonal and eyepieces:
1. Insert the small barrel of the diagonal into the 1.25” eyepiece adapter of
the focus tube on the refractor – Figure 2-19. Make sure the two
thumbscrews on the eyepiece adapter do not protrude into the focuser
tube before installation and the plug up cap is removed from the
eyepiece adapter.
2. Put the chrome barrel end of one of the eyepieces into the diagonal and
tighten the thumb screw. Again, when doing this make sure the thumb
screw is not protruding into the diagonal before inserting the eyepiece.
3. The eyepieces can be changed to other focal lengths by reversing the
procedure in step 2 above.
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The eyepiece (or ocular) is an optical element that magnifies the image focused by
the telescope. Without the eyepiece it would be impossible to use the telescope
visually. Eyepieces are commonly referred to by focal length and barrel diameter.
The longer focal length (i.e., the larger the number) the lower the eyepiece
magnification (i.e., power). Generally, you will use low-to-moderate power when
viewing. For more information on how to determine power, see the section on
“Calculating Magnification. The eyepiece fits directly into the focuser of the
Newtonians. To attach the eyepieces:
1. Make sure the thumbscrews are not protruding into the focuser tube. Then,
insert the chrome barrel of the eyepieces into the focus tube (remove the
plug up cap of the focuser first) and tighten the thumbscrews – see Figure 2-
20.
2. The 20mm eyepiece is called an erecting eyepiece since it corrects the
image so it is right side up and corrected left to right. This makes the
telescope useful for terrestrial viewing.
3. The eyepieces can be changed by reversing the procedure as described above.
Figure 2-19
Figure 2-20
13
Image orientation as seen with
the unaided eye & using erecting
devices on refractors &
Newtonians
Inverted image, normal with
Newtonians & as viewed with
eyepiece directly in a refractor
Reversed from left to right, as
viewed using a Star Diagonal on
a refractor
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The image orientation changes depending on how the eyepiece is inserted into the telescope. When using a star
diagonal with refractors, the image is right-side-up, but reversed from left-to-right (i.e., mirror image). If inserting
the eyepiece directly into the focuser of a refractor (i.e., without the diagonal), the image is upside-down and
reversed from left-to-right (i.e., inverted). However, when using the AstroMaster refractor and the standard erect
image diagonal, the image is correctly oriented in every aspect.
Newtonian reflectors produce a right-side-up image but the image will appear rotated based on the location of the
eyepiece holder in relation to the ground. However, by using the erect image eyepiece supplied with the
AstroMaster Newtonians, the image is correctly oriented.
Figure 3-3
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To focus your refractor or Newtonian telescope, simply turn the focus knob located directly below the eyepiece
holder (see Figures 1-1 and 1-2). Turning the knob clockwise allows you to focus on an object that is farther than
the one you are currently observing. Turning the knob counterclockwise from you allows you to focus on an object
closer than the one you are currently observing.
Note: If you wear corrective lenses (specifically glasses), you may want to remove them when observing with an
eyepiece attached to the telescope. However, when using a camera you should always wear corrective
lenses to ensure the sharpest possible focus. If you have astigmatism, corrective lenses must be worn at all
times.
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The Star Pointer is the quickest and easiest way to point your telescope exactly at a desired object in the sky. It's like
having a laser pointer that you can shine directly onto the night sky. The Star Pointer is a zero magnification
pointing tool that uses a coated glass window to superimpose the image of a small red dot onto the night sky. While
keeping both eyes open when looking through the Star Pointer, simply move your telescope until the red dot, seen
through the Star Pointer, merges with the object as seen with your unaided eye. The red dot is produced by a light-
emitting diode (LED); it is not a laser beam and will not damage the glass window or your eye. The star pointer is
powered by a long life 3-volt lithium battery (#CR1620) see Figure 3-4. Like all finderscopes, the Star Pointer must
be properly aligned with the main telescope before it can be used. The alignment procedure is best done at night
since the LED dot will be difficult to see during the day.
19
Figure 4-6
Aligning the equatorial mount to the polar axis of the Earth
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Polar alignment to the South Celestial Pole (SCP) is a little more challenging due to the fact that there is no very bright
star close to it like Polaris is in the NCP. There are various ways to polar align your telescope and for casual observing
the methods below are adequate and will get you reasonably close to the SCP.
Polar Alignment with the Latitude Scale
Figure 4-7
The easiest way to polar align a telescope is with a latitude scale. Unlike other methods that
require you to find the celestial pole by identifying certain stars near it, this method works off
of a known constant to determine how high the polar axis should be pointed.
The constant, mentioned above, is a relationship between your latitude and the angular
distance the celestial pole is above the southern horizon. The angular distance from the
southern horizon to the south celestial pole is always equal to your latitude. To illustrate this,
imagine that you are standing on the south pole, latitude -90°. The south celestial pole, which
has a declination of -90°, would be directly overhead (i.e., 90° above the horizon). Now, let’s
say that you move one degree north — your latitude is now -89° and the celestial pole is no
longer directly overhead. It has moved one degree closer toward the southern horizon. This
means the pole is now 89° above the southern horizon. If you move one degree further north,
the same thing happens again. You would have to travel 70 miles north or south to change
your latitude by one degree. As you can see from this example, the distance from the
southern horizon to the celestial pole is always equal to your latitude.
If you are observing from Sydney, which has a latitude of -34°, then the celestial pole is 34° above the southern horizon.
All a latitude scale does then is to point the polar axis of the telescope at the right elevation above the southern horizon.
To align your telescope:
1. Make sure the polar axis of the mount is pointing due south. Use a landmark that you know faces south.
2. Level the tripod. Leveling the tripod is only necessary if using this method of polar alignment.
3. Adjust the mount in altitude until the latitude indicator points to your latitude. Moving the mount affects the angle
the polar axis is pointing. For specific information on adjusting the equatorial mount, please see the section
“Adjusting the Mount” in your telescope manual.
4. If the above is done correctly, you should be able to observe near the pole through the finderscope and a low power
eyepiece.
This method can be done in daylight, thus eliminating the need to fumble around in the dark. Although this method does
NOT put you directly on the pole, it will limit the number of corrections you will make when tracking an object.
19

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