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Adjusting the fence (fig. H)
The upper part of the left side of the fence (7) can be adjusted to the left to
provide clearance, allowing the saw to bevel to a full 48° left. To adjust the
fence:
Loosen the plastic knob (23) and slide the fence to the left.
Make a dry run with the saw switched off and check for clearance.
Adjust the fence to be as close to the blade as practical to provide
maximum workpiece support, without interfering with the up and down
movement of the arm.
Tighten the knob securely.
The guide groove (52) can become clogged with sawdust. Use
a stick or some low pressure air to clear the guide groove.
Checking and adjusting the bevel angle (fig. A1, A2, I1 & I2)
Loosen the left side fence clamping knob (23) and slide the upper part
of the left side fence to the left as far as it will go.
Loosen the bevel clamp handle (17) and move the saw arm to the left
until the angle position stop (21) rests on the bevel position adjustment
stop (26). This is the 45° bevel position.
If adjustment is required, proceed as follows:
Loosen the lock nut (53) a few turns and turn the bevel position
adjustment stop screw (26) in or out until the pointer (54) indicates 45°
with the angle position stop (21) resting on the bevel position
adjustment stop.
Firmly tighten the lock nut (53) while holding the stop screw (26)
stationary.
To achieve a 3° right bevel or a 48° left bevel, the two adjustment stop
screws must be adjusted to allow the saw arm to move as necessary.
Instructions for use
Always observe the safety instructions and applicable
regulations.
The attention of UK users is drawn to the “woodworking machines
regulations 1974” and any subsequent amendments.
Prior to operation:
Install the appropriate saw blade. Do not use excessively worn blades.
The maximum rotation speed of the tool must not exceed that of the
saw blade.
Do not attempt to cut excessively small pieces.
Allow the blade to cut freely. Do not force.
Allow the motor to reach full speed before cutting.
Make sure all locking knobs and clamp handles are tight.
Secure the workpiece.
Although this saw will cut wood and many nonferrous materials,
these operating instructions refer to the cutting of wood only. The same
guide-lines apply to the other materials. Do not cut ferrous (iron and
steel) materials or masonry with this saw! Do not use any abrasive discs!
Make sure to use the kerf plate. Do not operate the machine if the kerf
slot is wider than 10 mm.
Switching on and off (fig. J)
To switch the tool on, depress the trigger switch (16).
To stop the tool, release the switch.
There is no provision for locking the switch on, but a hole (13) is
provided in the trigger for insertion of a padlock to lock the tool off.
Vertical straight cross cut (fig. A1, A2 & K)
Loosen the mitre clamp knob (4) and squeeze the mitre latch (5) upwards.
Engage the mitre latch at the 0° position and tighten the mitre clamp
knob.
Place the wood to be cut against the fence (3 & 7).
Take hold of the operating handle (1) and depress the head lock up
release lever (10) to release the head. Press the trigger switch (17) to
start the motor.
Depress the head to allow the blade to cut through the timber and
enter the plastic kerf plate (27).
After completing the cut, release the switch and wait for the saw blade
to come to a complete standstill before returning the head to its upper
rest position.
Vertical mitre cross-cut (fig. L)
Loosen the mitre clamp knob and squeeze the mitre latch upwards.
Move the head left or right to the required angle.
The mitre latch will automatically locate at 10°, 15°, 22.5°, 31.62° and
45°. If any intermediate angle or 50° is required hold the head firmly
and lock by tightening the mitre clamp knob.
Always ensure that the mitre clamp knob is locked tightly before cutting.
Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
When mitring the end of a piece of wood with a small off-cut,
position the wood to ensure that the off-cut is to the side of
the blade with the greater angle to the fence; i.e. left mitre,
off-cut to the right - right mitre, off-cut to the left.
Bevel cuts (fig. A1, A2 & M)
Bevel angles can be set from 3° right to 48° left and can be cut with the mitre
arm set between zero and a maximum of 45° mitre position right or left.
Loosen the left side fence clamping knob (23) and slide the upper part
of the left side fence (7) to the left as far as it will go. Loosen the bevel
clamp handle (17) and set the bevel as desired.
Tighten the bevel clamp handle (17) firmly.
Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.
Quality of cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables, e.g. the
material being cut. When smoothest cuts are desired for moulding and
other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower, even
cutting rate will produce the desired results.
Ensure that the material does not creep while cutting; clamp it
securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop
before raising the arm. If small fibres of wood still split out at
the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on the
wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and
carefully remove tape when finished.
Body and hand position
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the mitre saw
will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer.
Never place your hands near the cutting area.
Place your hands no closer than 150 mm from the blade.
Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting.
Keep your hands in position until the switch has been released and the
blade has completely stopped.
Always make dry runs (without power) before finish cuts so that you
can check the path of the blade.
Do not cross your hands.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance.
As you move the saw arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly to
the side of the saw blade.
Sight through the guard louvres when following a pencil line.
Clamping the workpiece (fig. A5)
Whenever possible, clamp the wood to the saw.
28

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