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33
WARNING: Ensure that the material does not creep while
cutting; clamp it securely in place. Always let the blade
come to a full stop before raising the arm. If small fibres of
wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece
of masking tape on the wood where the cut will be made.
Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape when
finished.
Body and Hand Position
Proper positioning of your body and hands when operating the mitre
saw will make cutting easier, more accurate and safer.
Never place your hands near the cutting area.
Place your hands no closer than 150 mm from the blade.
Hold the workpiece tightly to the table and the fence when cutting.
Keep your hands in position until the switch has been released and
the blade has completely stopped.
Always make dry runs (without power) before finish cuts so that
you can check the path of the blade.
Do not cross your hands.
Keep both feet firmly on the floor and maintain proper balance.
As you move the saw arm left and right, follow it and stand slightly
to the side of the saw blade.
Sight through the guard louvres when following a pencil line.
CUTTING PICTURE FRAMES, SHADOW BOXES & OTHER FOUR SIDED PROJECTS
(FIG. R1 & R2)
TRIM MOULDING AND OTHER FRAMES
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a “feel”
for your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one
shown in fig. R1. The joint shown has been made using either bevel
adjustment.
- Using bevel adjustment
The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a
90° corner. The mitre arm is locked in the zero position. The wood is
positioned with the broad flat side against the table and the narrow
edge against the fence.
- Using mitre adjustment
The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad
surface against the fence. The two sketches (fig. R1 & R2) are for four
side objects only. As the number of sides changes, so do the mitre and
bevel angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of
shapes, assuming that all sides are of equal length. For a shape that is
not shown in the chart, divide 180° by the number of sides to determine
the mitre or bevel angle.
No. of sides Angle mitre or bevel
4 45°
5 36°
6 30°
7 25.7°
8 22.5°
9 20°
10 18°
COMPOUND MITRE (FIG. S1 & S2)
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle (fig. R2) and a
bevel angle (fig. R1) at the same time. This is the type of cut used to
make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in fig. S1.
WARNING: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut,
check that the bevel clamp knob and the mitre lock knob
are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened
after making any changes in bevel or mitre.
The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel
and mitre settings for common compound mitre cuts. To use the
chart, select the desired angle “A” (fig. S2) of your project and
locate that angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that
point follow the chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle
and straight across to find the correct mitre angle.
Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts.
Practice fitting the cut pieces together.
Example: To make a 4 sided box with 25° exterior angles (angle
“A”) (fig. S2), use the upper right arc. Find 25° on the arc scale.
Follow the horizontal intersecting line to either side to get the mitre
angle setting on the saw (23°).
Likewise follow the vertical intersecting line to the top or bottom to
get the bevel angle setting on the saw (40°). Always try cuts on a
few scrap pieces of wood to verify the settings on the saw.
Cutting Base Mouldings
The cutting of base moulding is performed at a 45° bevel angle.
Always make a dry run without power before making any cuts.
All cuts are made with the back of the moulding laying flat on the
saw.
INSIDE CORNER
Left side
Position the moulding with top of the moulding against the fence.
Save the left side of the cut.
Right side
Position the moulding with the bottom of the moulding against the
fence.
Save the left side of the cut.
OUTSIDE CORNER
Left side
Position the moulding with the bottom of the moulding against the
fence.
Save the right side of the cut.
Right side
Position the moulding with top of the moulding against the fence.
Save the right side of the cut.
Cutting Crown Mouldings
The cutting of crown moulding is performed in a compound mitre.
In order to achieve extreme accuracy, your saw has pre-set angle
positions at 31.62° mitre and 33.85° bevel. These settings are for
standard crown mouldings with 52° angles at the top and 38° angles
at the bottom.
Make test cuts using scrap material before doing the final cuts.
All cuts are made in a left bevel and with the back of the moulding
against the base.
INSIDE CORNER
Left side
Top of the moulding against the fence.
Mitre right.
Save the left side of the cut.
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45
0 5 10 15 20 25 30 35 40 45
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
45
5
10
15
20
25
30
35
40
5
10
1
5
2
0
25
30
3
5
40
45
50
5
5
60
65
7
0
75
80
85
5
10
1
5
20
25
30
35
40
4
5
5
0
55
60
6
5
7
0
75
80
85
5
1
0
1
5
20
25
30
35
40
4
5
50
5
5
6
0
65
7
0
7
5
80
85
SET THIS BEVEL ANGLE ON SAW
SET THIS MITER ANGLE ON SAW
ANGLE OF SIDE OF BOX (ANGLE"A")
SQUARE BOX
6 SIDED BOX
8 SIDED BOX
35

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