Bedienungsanleitung Husqvarna 235 (Seite 18 von 464) (Deutsch, Englisch, Holländisch, Dänisch, Französisch, Italienisch, Portugiesisch, Spanisch, Polnisch, Türkisch, Schwedisch, Norwegisch, Finnisch)

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WORKING TECHNIQUES

18 – English

1153134-26 Rev. 3 2010-02-11

Tree felling technique

Safe distance

The safe distance between a tree that is to be felled and

anyone else working nearby is at least 2 1/2 tree lengths.

Make sure that no-one else is in this ”risk zone” before or

during felling. (38)

Felling direction

The aim is to fell the tree in a position where you can limb

and cross-cut the log as easily as possible. You want it to

fall in a location where you can stand and move about

safely.

Once you have decided which way you want the tree to fall

you must judge which way the tree would fall naturally.

Several factors affect this:

• Lean of the tree

• Bend

• Wind direction

• Arrangement of branches

• Weight of snow

• Obstacles within the reach of the tree: for example,

other trees, power lines, roads and buildings.

• Look for signs of damage and rot in the stem, this makes

it more probably that the tree will break and start to fall

before you expect it to.

You may ﬁnd you are forced to let the tree fall in its natural

direction because it is impossible or dangerous to try to

make it fall in the direction you ﬁrst intended.

Another very important factor, which does not affect the

felling direction but does affect your safety, is to make sure

the tree has no damaged or dead branches that might

break off and hit you during felling.

The main point to avoid is letting the tree fall onto another

tree. It is very dangerous to remove a trapped tree and

there is high accident risk. See instructions under the

heading Freeing a tree that has fallen badly.

Clearing the trunk and preparing your retreat

Delimb the stem up to shoulder height. It is safer to work

from the top down and to have the tree between you and

the saw.

Remove any undergrowth from the base of the tree and

check the area for obstacles (stones, branches, holes, etc.)

so that you have a clear path of retreat when the tree starts

to fall. Your path of retreat should be roughly 135 degrees

away from the intended felling direction. (39)

1 Danger zone

2 Retreat path

3 Felling direction

Felling

Felling is done using three cuts. First you make the

directional cuts, which consist of the top cut and the bottom

cut, then you ﬁnish with the felling cut. By placing these

cuts correctly you can control the felling direction very

accurately.

Directional cuts

To make the directional cuts you begin with the top cut.

Stand to the right of the tree and cut on the pull stroke.

Next make the bottom cut so that it ﬁnishes exactly at the

end of the top cut. (40)

The directional cuts should run 1/4 of the diameter through

the trunk and the angle between the top cut and bottom cut

should be 45°.

The line where the two cuts meet is called the directional

cut line. This line should be perfectly horizontal and at right

angles (90°) to the chosen felling direction. (41)

Felling cut

The felling cut is made from the opposite side of the tree

and it must be perfectly horizontal. Stand on the left side of

the tree and cut on the pull stroke.

Make the felling cut about 3-5 cm (1.5-2 inches) above the

bottom directional cut.

Set the spike bumper (if one is ﬁtted) just behind the felling

hinge. Use full throttle and advance the chain/bar slowly

into the tree. Make sure the tree does not start to move in

the opposite direction to your intended felling direction.

Drive a wedge or breaking bar into the cut as soon as it is

deep enough. (42)

Finish the felling cut parallel with the directional cut line so

that the distance between them is at least 1/10 of the trunk

diameter. The uncut section of the trunk is called the felling

hinge.

The felling hinge controls the direction that the tree falls in.

(43)

All control over the felling direction is lost if the felling hinge

is too narrow or non-existent, or if the directional cuts and

felling cut are badly placed.

When the felling cut and directional cut are complete the

tree should start to fall by itself or with the aid of a felling

wedge or breaking bar.

We recommend that you use a bar that is longer than the

diameter of the tree, so that you can make the felling cut

and directional cuts with single cutting strokes. See

instructions under the heading Technical data section to

ﬁnd out which lengths of bar are recommended for your

saw.

There are methods for felling trees with a diameter larger

than the bar length. However these methods involve a

much greater risk that the kickback zone of the bar will

come into contact with the tree.

IMPORTANT! It takes a lot of experience to fell a tree.

Inexperienced users of chain saws should not fell trees.

Do not attempt any task that you feel unsure of!

IMPORTANT! During critical felling operations, hearing

protectors should be lifted immediately when sawing is

completed so that sounds and warning signals can be

heard.

WARNING! Unless you have special

training we advise you not to fell trees

with a diameter larger than the bar

length of your saw!

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