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I
Fri
14
We
reserve
the
right
to
change
at
any
time
the
contents
of
the
box
of
attach
ments
and
accessories.
3—
—12
—4
2—
1.
16.
17.
18.
19.
20.
21.
22.
Stitch
length
scale
Stitch
length
guide
Stitch
length
knob
Drop
feed
knob
Shuttle
access
door
Throat
plate
Feed
dog
3046
S
15406
S
15816
This
manual
has
been
prepared
to
help
you
learn
to
use
sour
new
Hiisqvarna
Rotary
iii
such
a
way
that
you
will
get
the
very
best
out
of
it
to
enable
you
to
take
full
advantage
of
all
the
machine’s
special
features
which
put
skill
into
your
fingers
and
make
sewing
fun.
Maybe
you
are
thoroughly
accustomed
to
sewing
by
machine
and
feel
you
can
skip
reading
these
instructions.
Our
advice
is:
Don’t.
We
can
say
with
fair
certainty that
you
will
find
quite
a
number
of
ideas
here
that
you
hadn’t
thought
of
before,
as
well
as
simple
sewing
tricks
that
von
had
forgotten.
Have
the
machine
in
front
of
you
as
you
read,
and
try
out
the
various
operations.
Even
if
you
have
had
some
previous
instruction
in
the
use
of
your
Has
qvarna
Rotary,
this
is
probably
the
first
time
you
have
been
alone
with
it
so
here
is
a
splendid
opportunity
to
get
acquainted.
You’ll
find
it
well
worth
while,
too.
Even
after
von
have
acquired
the
general
technique
of
sewing
on
the
Hus
qvarna
Rotary,
you
will
probably
want
to
consult
the
manual
from
time
to
time
in
regard
to
details.
So
keep
this
booklet
always
at
hand
preferably
in
the
case
with
the
machine.
Good
luck
and
good
sewing
with
your
Has
qvarna
Rotary!
Needle
and
Thread
Needle
and
thread
selector
Delicate
fabrics
like
georgette,
100
chiffon,
batiste.
fine
ace,
tine
to
linen
and
other
sheer
fabrics.
150
For
fine
lingerie.
intants’
clothes
and
tine
lace
work.
70
Medium
light-weight
and
sum-
SO
I
mertime
tabrics.
to
For
house
dresses,
children’s
-
100
dresses,
cottons,
aprons,.
curtains.
80
Dress
silks
and
cottons,
light
60
weight
to
woollens
and
decora-
to
tors’
fabrics,
80
For
dressmaking
and
general
hou
sehold
sewing,
men’s
dress
shirts
and
light
weight
draperies.
90
Heavy
cretonne.
madras,
muslin,
40
brocades
and
quilts.
to
For
men’s
work
shirts
and
tither
60
work
clothes,
heavy
quilting
and
decorators’
articles.
100
Heavy
woollens
and
suiting,
110
lightweight
canvas,
bed
ticking,
upholstery
and
awning
materials,
slipcover
fabrics.
For
men’s
suits,
work
and
sports
clothes,
awnings,
slipcover,,
up
holstery
and
mattresses.
120
Heavy
overcoating.
duck,
ticking,
24
drills,
canvas
and
sacking.
to
For
heavy
washable
uniforms,
30
bedding
for
hospitals,
hotels
and
camps.
Extra
heavy
and
coarse
T
goods.
Extra-
130
For
canvas
bags
and
heavy
can-i
20
heavy
vas
products,
to
24
It’s
easy
to
let
acquainted
with
your
-I
USQVARNA
Rotary
Sizes
&
Size
of
thread
grades
Types
of
fabric
and
work
Cot
Silk
Linen
of
needles
ton
Unless
a
contrasting
effect
is
desired,
the
stitching
should
match
the
fabric
as
closely
as
possible.
It
is
therefore
important
to
select
a
needle
and
thread
suit
ed
to
the
material
which
is
being
sewn.
The
table
on
this
page
will
help
you
to
do
this.
Needle
System
705
(15
Xl)
is
the
one
used
for
the
Husqvarna
Ro
tary.
In
case
you
forget
the
number,
it
is
engrav
ed
on
a
plate
attached
to
the
rear
of
the
ma
chine.
System
750
Grades
Sizec
Fine
60
Shank
Me
dium
line
Me
dium
Light-
heavy
Me
dium-
heavy
Heavy
00
and
000
twist
0
twist
A&B
twist
C
twist
twist
E
twist
30
to
40
Eye
Point
40
to
60
How
to
insert
a
needle
Removing
the
bobbin
case
from
the
shutt$e
Loosen
the
needle
screw
(A,
Fig.
3).
Insert
the
needle
in
the
clamp
(B)
and
push
it
up
as
far
as
it
will
go.
See
that
the
flat
side
of
the
needle
is
turned
away
from
you.
Tighten
the
screw
securely,
and
check
again
to
make
sure
that
the
needle
is
correctly
inserted.
The
long
groove
over
the
needle’s
eye
should
be
facing
you.
When
using
a
twin
or
triple
needle,
in
sert
in
the
same
way.
Turn
the
hand
wheel
(15,
Fig.
1)
towards
you
until
the
needle
is
in
its
highest
position.
Open
the
shuttle
access
door
(20,
Fig.
1).
Take
hold
of
the
bobbin
case
with
the
thumb
and
forefinger
(Fig.
4),
so
that
the
latch
(A,
Fig.
5)
is
depressed,
and
lift
the
case
out.
As
long
as
the
latch
is
depressed,
the
bobbin
is
held
in
its
case.
To
remove
the
bobbin,
release
the
latch
and
turn
the
case
downwards.
The
bobbin
then
falls
out.
Fig.
3.
Fig.
4.
Fig.
5.
3
Start
the
bobbin
winder
by
pressing
the
foot
pedal,
and
wind
at
a
moderate
speed.
Stop
winding
when
the
bobbin
is
filled
to
about
116
in.
from
the
rim.
The
spindle
automatically
engages
the
sewing
mecha
nism
again,
when
the
bob
bin
is
pulled
off.
Bobbin
winding
is
simple
Place
a
spool
of
thread
on
the
spool
pin
nearest
the
hand
wheel.
Run
the
thread
through
the
thread
guide
(A,
fig.
6)
and
down
under
the
guide
(B)
on
the
tension
device
and
back
between
the
ten
sion
discs
(C).
Wind
the
thread
two
or
three
times
around
the
bobbin
(0),
and
push
the
bobbin
as
far
as
it
will
go
onto
the
win
der
spindle.
This
automatically
disen
gages
the
sewing
mechanism.
4
Bobbin
must
be
evenly
wound
to
produce
an
even
seam
If
you
find
the
machine
is
winding
unevenly
as
in
(I),
loosen
the
screw
(30,
Fig.
2)
and
move
the
ten
sion
device
slightly
inwards
toward
the
machine.
Tight
en
the
screw
and
test
to
see
if
the
winding
is
now
even.
If
the
machine
winds
unevenly
in
the
other
di
rection,
as
in
(II),
move
the
tension
device
out
wards,
to
the
right.
A
cor
rectly
wound
bobbin
should
look
like
(III)
(somewhat
higher
in
the
middle).
Fig.
6.
Fig.
7.
N1III
HII
I
II
III
Threading
the
bobbin
case
Hold
the
bobbin
case
in
your
left
hand
with
1ie
slot
in
the
edge
upwards
or
facing
you
(Fig.
7).
Take
the
bobbin
in
your
right
hand,
so
that
the
thread
end
leads
away
from
you,
and
drop
it
into
the
case.
Then,
still
with
your
right
hand,
draw
the
thread
into
the
slot
in
the
edge
of
the
case
(Fig.
8).
Now
lead
the
thread
under
the
tension
spring
and
let
it
come
out
at
the
notch
in
the
end
of
the
spring
(Fig.
9).
Pull
the
thread
out
a
few
inches,
and
check
to
see
that
the
bobbin
rotates
clockwise
in
the
case.
Lower
thread
tension
The
machine
comes
from
the
factory
with
the
lower
thread
tension
adjusted
for
normal
use.
Do
not
alter
the
tension
unless
it
is
absolutely
necessary
as
for
example,
when
sew
ing
very
loosely
or
tightly
woven
fabrics,
or
when
doing
special
jobs,
such
as
sewing
buttonholes,
eyelets,
etc.
To
ad
just
the
lower
thread
tension,
use
the
small
screwdriver
which
you
will
find
in
the
attachment
box.
Take
out
the
bobbin
case
and
turn
the
spring
screw
(Fig.
10)
to
the
right
to
in
crease
the
tension
or
to
the
left
to
decrease
it.
Do
not
turn
the
spring
screw
more
than
1/8
of
a
tarn
without
testing
to
see
if
the
adjustment
is
sufficient.
Fig.
9.
Fig.
12
fl
Li
Fig.
8.
5
Inserting
the
bobbin
case
Turn
the
hand
wheel
(15.
Fig.
1)
to
wards
you
until
the
needle
is
in
its
highest
position.
Open
the
access
door
(20,
Fig.
1)
and
pick
up
the
bobbin
case
with
the
thumb
and
forefinger,
gripping
the
latch
(A.
Fig.
5)
firmly
so
the
bobbin
does
not
fall
out.
Push
the
bobbin
case
onto
the
centre
post
of
the
shuttle
(A,
Fig.
11),
with
its
projection
upwards
so
as
to
fit
the
notch
(B)
in
the
shuttle
race.
Press
the
case
firmly
into
place.
Leave
the
thread
end
hanging
down
from
the
bobbin
case,
and
close
the
access
door.
6
Upper
thread:
This
is
the
way
to
thread
it
Bring
the
thread
take-up
lever
(6,
Fig.
12)
to
its
highest
position
by
turning
the
hand
wheel
towards
you.
Put
a
spool
of
thread
on
one
of
the
spool
pins
(35,
Fig.
2).
Pass
thread
through
the
thread
guides
(1
and
2,
Fig.
12),
then
round
from
right
to
left
between
the
innermost
tension
discs
(3),
over
the
crotch
of
the
thread
take-
up
spring
(4),
under
the
slack
thread
regulator
(5)
and
up
through
one
of
the
eves
in
the
thread
take-up
lever
(6).
From
the
take-up
lever
take
the
thread
down
through
thread
guide
(7)
and
the
guide
on
the
needle
clamp
(8)
and
thread
it
through
the
needle
point,
pulling
out
3
or
4
inches
behind.
To
sew
with
twin
or
triple
needles,
you
thread
the
machine
with
two
or
three
threads
in
the
same
way
as
with
one,
except
that
the
threads
are
passed
be
tween
separate
pairs
of
tension
discs
and
through
separate
holes
in
the
take-up
lever
(6).
Once
the
machine
is
threaded,
be
careful
not
to
run
it
unless
there
is
some
fabric
between
the
presser
foot
and
the
throat
plate.
Upper
thread
tension
The
tension
of
the
upper
thread
is
regulated
by
the
pressure
of
the
tension
discs
(3,
Fig.
12)
against
each
other.
This
pressure
is
adjusted
by
means
of
a
knob
calibrated
from
0
to
9
with
0
as
lowest
and
9
as
highest
thread
tension
(Fig.
13).
When
the
machine
leaves
the
factory,
it
is
adjusted
for
linen-sewing
with
merceri
zed
thread
No.
50.
Fig.
11.
Fig.
12.
Correct
tension
When
the
tension
of
the
upper
and
lower
threads
is
correctly
re
gulated.
the
stitches
look
alike
on
both
sides
of
the
material.
The
tieing
up
then
occurs
in
the
midd
le
of
the
layer
of
the
material.
Upper
thread
tension
too
tight
Upper
thread
is
stretched
out
along
the
top
of
the
material,
while
the
lower
thread
is
pulled
up
in
small
loops.
(This
will
also
happen
if
the
tension
of
the
lower
threads
is
too
light,
but
always
try
to
correct
by
adjusting
the
upper
thread
tenstion.)
Loosen
the
upper
thread
tension
by
turning
the
knob
to
a
lower
figure.
Bringing
up
the
lower
thread
After
the
upper
thread
has
been
threaded
through
the
needle,
hold
the
end
loosely
in
your
left
hand,
and
with
your
right
hand
turn
the
balance
wheel
slow
ly
towards
you
so
that
the
needle
goes
down
and
comes
up
again
to
its
highest
position.
Now
pull
the
up
per
thread,
and
the
lower
thread
will
come
up
through
the
hole
in
the
throat
plate
(Fig.
14).
Increasing
and
decreasing
of
pressi
Tension
of
upper
thread
too
light
Lower
thread
is
stretched
along
the
underside
of
the
material,
and
the
upper
thread
pulled
down
in
loops.
(Again,
this
will
happen
with
too
tight
a
tension
on
the
lower
thread,
but
before
adjusting
the
lower
thread
tension,
try
ad
justing
the
tension
of
the
upper
thread).
Increase
the
upper
thread
tension
by
turning
the
knob
to
a
higher
figure.
If
the
pressure
on
the
presser
foo
by
turning
the
regulating
screw
(A
pressure
is
too
great
turn
the
screw
t
The
feed
dog
When
darning,
embroidering
etc.,
free
so
you
can
move
it
by
hand
in
is
made
possible
by
lowering
the
fee
To
lower
the
feed
dog,
turn
the
k
to
the
right
so
the
mark
on
it
p
When
you
want
the
feed
mechanis
turn
the
feed-drop
knob
to
the
left
permost.
Fig.
13.
J—u
Now
we
are
ready
to
sew!
With
its
jam-proof
shuttle,
the
Husqvarna
Ro
tary
produces
an
excellent
straight
stitch.
This
shuttle
is
designed
so
as
to
release
exactly
the
same
length
of
thread
at
each
revolution
no
matter
how
fast
the
machine
is
run.
Now,
if
you
have
selected
the
right
needle
and
thread,
and
have
checked
the
thread
tension,
we
are
ready
to
start
sewing.
Place
the
fabric
under
the
presser
foot
and
lower
the
presser
bar.
Place
the
motor
foot
control
for
greatest
comfort
and
start
the
machine
by
depres
sing
it
gently.
Remember
that
with
the
Husqvarna
Rotary
you
have
no
need
to
manipulate
the
hand
wheel
to
help
the
machine
get
started
or
slow
it
down.
The
foot
control,
fig.
16,
ensures
smooth
starts
and
accurate
stopping
thus
leaving
both
hands
free
for
sewing.
Mind
you,
Start
the
seam
in
the
fabric,
not
out
side.
When
you
have
got
the
seam
started,
the
machi
ne
speed
can
be
increased
as
desired.
Regulate
the
sewing
speed
by
means
of
the
foot
control
only
and
never
try
to
alter
the
rate
of
feed
by
manipu
lating
the
fabric.
If
you
try
to
pull
the
fabric
for
ward
or
hold
it
back,
you
may
even
damage
other
moving
parts
of
the
machine.
The
reduction
gear
is
used
when
you
want
to
sew
extra
s-I-o-w-I-y
You
will
find
the
special
speed
control
invaluable
when
you
want
to
sew
partic
ularly
slowly
for
instance,
when
doing
careful
work.
The
reduction
gear
is
en
gaged
by
pulling
out
the
knob
(Fig.
15)
as
far
as
it
will
go.
This
causes
the
ma
chine
to
sew
at
about
one/fifth
its
normal
speed.
The
speed
reducer
enables
you
to
sew
extremely
slowly,
stitch
by
stitch,
and
thus
gives
you
complete
control.
Push
the
knob
in,
and
the
machine
again
sews
at
normal
speed.
Fig.
15.
Turning
a
corner
To
turn
a
corner,
stop
the
machine
with
the
needle
in
the
fabric,
raise
the
presser
foot
and
rotate
the
fabric
around
the
needle
until
it
is
in
position
for
the
new
seam.
Then
lower
the presser
foot
and
continue
sewing.
Setting
the
stitch
length
You
can
obtain
different
lengths
of
stitch
by
altering
the
setting
of
the
stitch
length
control
(Fig.
17).
The
pointer
in
dicates
the
length
of
stitch
on
the
dial
the
further
down
the
lever
is
pushed,
the
longer
will
be
the
stitch.
When
you
have
obtained
the
right
setting,
lock
the
lever
at
that
point
by
screwing
the
knob
clock
wise
until
you
feel
slight
resistance.
Reverse
stitching,
locking
seams
When
the
stitch
length
control
is
set
below
0,
the
machine
sews
forward.
As
soon
as
you
move
the
lever
up
past
0,
it
starts
sewing
backwards,
moving
the
fab
ric
toward
you
instead
of
away
from
you.
Simple,
instantaneous
change
from
forward
to
reverse
stitching,
or
vice
versa,
is
especially
useful
in
locking
seams.
Since
the
knob
locks
the
lever
at
the
desired
stitch
length,
you
get
the
same
length
of
stitch
in
each
direction.
Finishing
off
After
stopping
the
machine,
turn
the
Fi
17
hand
wheel
toward
you
until
the
needle
g.
is
in
its
highest
position.
Raise
the
presser
foot
lifter
(23,
Fig.
2)
and
draw
the
work
out
backwards
away
from
you.
Pull
out
the
thread
4-5
inches,
and
cut
them
off
against
the
thread
cutter
at the
back
of the
presser
bar
(24,
Fig.
2).
9
Fig.
16.
Find
it
difficult
For
quilting
and
marking,
use
the
edge
guide
You
attach
the
edge
guide
(Fig.
18)
by
sliding
it
from
left
to
right
into
the
hole
in
the
presser
bar.
Set
it
at
the
desired
distance
from
the
needlc
and
fix
it
there
by
screwing
the
attachment
screw
into
the
hole
in
the
back
of
the
presser
bar.
Use
markings
to
guide
you
when
sewing
the
first
seam.
To
sew
parallel
rows
of
stitching.
move
the
work
to
the
right
so
that
the
row
al
ready
sewn
comes
under
the
guide.
You
will
find
quilting,
as
well
as
marking,
quite
easy
when
you
use
this
guide.
to
sew
straight?
Even
those
who
are
used
to
se
wing
on
a
machine
sometimes
have
difficulty
in
running
a
straight
seam.
This
difficulty
can
be
over
come
simple
and
easily,
by
lear
ning
to
use
the
presser
foot
as
a
guide
or
using
the
practical
edge
guide
(Special
attachment
S
15420).
Fig.
18.
10
Tucks
and
stitched
edges
The
important
thing
when
sewing
tucks
or
stitching
edges
is
that
the
tucks
be
of
even
depth
all
along
their
length,
and
that
the
stitching
is
parallel
to
the
edge
of
the
fabric.
These
arc
instances
where
you
can
make
use
of
the
presser
foot
or the
edge
guide.
Mark
the
distance
between
the
folds
of
the
tuck
by
machine
stitching
without
thread,
then
fold
the
cloth
along
the
markings.
Guide
the
fol
ded
edge
by
the
presser
foot
r
the
guide
attachment.
Zipper
in
centre
of
opening
Baste
together
the
opening
with
long
stitches
and
the
upper
thread
lightly
ten
sioned.
Leave
about
3/4
in.
(20
mm)
open
at
the
end.
Force
the
seam
apart
and
baste
in
the
zipper
by
hand
on
the
un
derside.
Change
to
the
special
presser
foot
for
attaching
zip
fasteners
(Fig.
19)
(Special
attachment
S
15395).
Open
the
zipper
about
3/4
10.
(20
mm)
and
start
stitching down
the
left
side
of
the
opening
(with
the
work
right
side
out).
Stitch
a
bit,
then
leaving
the
needle
in
the
fabric,
raise
the
presser
foot.
Close
the
zipper
and
continue
stitching
round
it.
Finish
off
by
opening
the
fastener
slightly
as
before.
Remove
the
basting.
Zipper
under
the
fly
Baste
the
fly
along
the edge
with
long
stitches
and
lightly
tensioned
upper
thread.
Then
make
a
fold
in
the
lower
piece
of
cloth,
about
/i
in.
(2
mm)
from
the
basting
stitches,
and
stitch
the
zipper
to
it,
beginning
at
the
bottom
and
running
the
zioper
foot
closely
along
its
right
side.
Open
the
zipper
as
above
to
finish
off.
Turn
the
garment
around,
and
with
the
right
side
of
the
cloth
still
up
permost.
stitch
the
other
side
of
the
zipper
from
the
top
downvards.
F
It’s
easier
to
sew
a
zipper
on,
than
you
think
it
is!
Fig.
19.
11
Gathering
the
Husqvarna
Rotary
to
do
gathering
in
several
ways.
Gathering
with
elastic
thread
Simple
gathering
Use
the
presser
foot.
Stitches
should
be
rather
long
and
the
upper
thread
tension
sufficiently
light
to
enable
the
lower
thread
to
be
pulled.
Sew
as
usual,
but
preferably
stitch
two
rows,
using
the
presser
foot
as
a
guide.
Instructions
on
page
10
tell
you
how
to
do
this.
When
both
rows
have
been
stitched,
pull
the
lower
thread
so
as
to
form
gathers
in
the
fabric
(Fig.
20).
Gathering
in
several
rows
This
is
where
the
edge
guide
comes
in
useful.
Set
it
so
that
you
guide
by
the
adjacent
row
to
the
one
you
are
stitching.
By
using
Lastex
thread
you
can
make
elastic
gathers.
Wind
the
elastic
thread
by
hand
on
the
bobbin,
and
use
ordinary
thread
for
the
upper
thread.
This
kind
of
gathering
is
especially
suitable
for
under
wear,
children’s
clothes,
bcachwear,
etc.
You
can
use
Fig.
20.
12
Making
narrow
hems
Felled
seams
As
special
attachment
are
hemmer
feet
for
three
widths
of
hem.
To
sew
the
hem
shown
below,
use
hemmer
foot
No.
3035
(Fig.
21).
Remove
the
presser
foot
and
attach
the
hemmer.
Clip
off
‘Is
in.
(3
mm)
or
so
from
the
corner
of
the
fabric
where
the
hem
starts,
and
fold
over
the
edge
for
about
/2
in.
(13
mm)
to
a
depth
suited
to
the
cloth
and
the
hemmer
foot.
Sew
a
single
stitch
where
the
hem
starts.
Then
holding
the
threads
firmly
with
your
right
hand,
lift
the
hemmer
foot
slightly
in
order
to
get
the
folded
edge
into
the
scroll
more
easily.
Once
started,
the
hem
mer
folds
the
fabric
automatically
you
just
have
to
bear
in
mind
not
to
crowd
too
much
material
in
to
the
scroll.
To
produce
an
extra-narrow
hem,
use
hemmer
foot
No.
3002
and
sew
as
above.
The
hemmer
feet
can
also
be
used
for
felling.
Place
the
pieces
of
cloth
one
on
top
of
the
other
with
the
edge
of
the
bottom
piece
sticking
out
slightly
just
enough
to
enable
the
lower
edge
to
be
felled
easily
with
out
folding.
When
stitching
the
two
pieces
together,
see
that
their
edges
are
the
same
distance
apart
all
the
way
(Fig.
22).
After
sewing
together,
spread
out
the
work
so
that
the
hem
stands
up.
Then
insert
the
hem
in
the
hem
mer
and
run
the
second
seam
(Fig.
23).
Basting
and
marking
(tailor
tacks)
Avoid
unnecessary
hand
work
by
using
the
machine
as
much
as
possible.
You
have
the
machine
out
anyway,
so
you
may
as
well
take
advantage
of
it.
Basting
is
done
with
longest
stitches
and
light
upper
thread
tension
so
that
the
threads
can
easily
be
pulled
out.
To
mark
by
machine,
lower
the
feed
dog
so
you
can
move
the
work
about
in
any
direction
you
like.
Light
tension
of
the
thread.
Fig.
22.
Fig.
21.
Fig.
23.
13
Marking
When
marking
by
machine
two
me
thods
are
available,
i.
e.,
ordinary
stit
ching
using
the
presser
foot
or
without
the
presser
foot
and
with
the
feed
dog
disengaged.
In
the
latter
case
an
embro
idery
frame
is
required.
If
the
latter
method
is
used
two
forms
of
marking
can
be
carried
out,
“quick-marking”
or
satin
or
flat
stitch.
Marking
with
ordinary
stiching:
Or
dinary
marking
wool
can
be
used
for
the
upper
thrcad
but
when
sewing
with
pearl
thread
or
botton
hole
silk
the
thicker
thread
must
be
used
as
the
lower
thread.
When
using
marking
wool
as
the
upper
thread
the
tension
must
be
decreased
the
looser
the
thread
the
fuller
the
stitch.
Mercerized
thread
or
ordinary
sewing
thread
can
be
used
as
the
lower
thread.
Change
over
to
very
coarse
needle
No.
110
or
120
is
suitable
if
sewing
with
thread
No.
14
or
12.
Select
the
stitch
length
most
suitable
for
the
monogram.
Draw
in
the
pattern
and
stitch
around
the
outline.
If
a
very
full
seam
is
requi
red
make
two
outline
stitches
close
to
each
other.
The
loops
can
be
filled
in
with
tight
rows
of
stitches
if
required.
If
a
coarse
lower
thread
is
used,
e.
g.
pearl
wool,
the
tension
spring
on
the
bobbin
case
must
be
loosened
considerab
ly
but
take
care
not
to
damage
i.e.
Mer
cerized
thread
is
generally
the
most
sui
table.
As
the
lower
thread
is
the
one
visible,
the
monogram
must
be
drawn
in
reverse,
either
on
the
material
or
on
a
paper
pattern.
“Quick-marking”
can
be
used
for
mo
uograms
with
filed
letters,
for
round
out
lines
or
for
“written”
names.
Use
coloured
darning
thread
or
mer
cerized
thread
for
both
upper
and
lower
thread.
Both
are
to
be
equally
tensioned
not
too
hard.
Remove
the
presser
foot
and
disengage
the
feed
dog.
Stitch
around
the
outlines
and
then
fill
with
tight
rows
of
stitches
or
“write”
the
name
with
short
stitches
in
one
or
two
lines
of
stitches.
Fig.
24.
Fig.
25.
14
Embroidery
with
solid
raised
stitching
Remove
the
presser
foot
and
lower
the
feed
dog.
Thread
the
mahcine
with
an
embroidery
thread
intended
for
sewing
machines
(silk
or
mercerized
thread).
Stretch
the
fabric
with
the
outline
design
on
an
embroidery
hoop.
First
sew
a
stitch
or
two
by
turning
the
hand
wheel
to
bring
up
the
lower
thread;
then
holding
both
the
upper
and
lower
threads
lock
them
by
again
sewing
a
couple
of
stitches.
Run
around
the
contours
of
the
design
with
fine
stitches
(Fig.
26)
and
start
filling
in
the
design
with
rows
of
stitches
by
gui
ding
the
hoop
slowly
backwards
and
for
wards
under
the
needle.
After
an
even
padding
has
been
obtained,
finish
off
with
long
straight
stitches
as
in
hand
work.
Appliqué
Tack
the
pattern
in
position
and
place
the
work
in
the
embroidery
frame.
Stitch
it
fast
with
small,
tight
stitches
around
the
edge.
The
ragged
edges
can
be
cove
red
by
fastening
the
thicker
thread
with
a
couple
of
cross
stitches,
laying
it
one
side
and
sewing
a
couple
of
stitches
along
the
edge
of
the
pattern,
then
sewing
anot
her
couple
of
stitches
over
the
thicker
thread
and
couple
more
along
the
edge
of
the
pattern
and
so
on.
(Fig.
27.)
Piping
and
braiding
If
piping,
wool
or
braid
is
to
be
sewn
on
the
material
(soutache
embroidery)
the
piping
apparatus
is
a
very
handy
accessory.
This
is
similar
to
the
presser
foot
(and
replaces
it)
but
is
fitted
at
the
front
with
an
opening
through
which
the
pipings
run
(Fig.
28).
Insert
the
piping
under
the
needle
as
far
as
it
will
go,
depress
the
presser
foot
and
begin
to
sew.
When
sewing
in
braid
the
braider
must
used.
First
of
all
sew
an
ordinary
seam
in
double
material.
Place
the
braid
between
the
layers
of
material,
adjust
the
braider
and
allow
the
raised
part
from
the
brad
to
run
through
the
groove
by
the
needle
hole
while
at
the
same
time
sritchn’
a
new
seam
as
close
to
the
braid
as
po;sible
without
actually
sewing
into
it.
When
several
rows
of
braiding
are
sewn,
the
preceding
row
runs
in
the
other
groove.
/_
i
Fig.
26.
Fig.
27.
Fig.
28.
15
Attaching
lace
edging
Sewing
with
twin
needles
If
you
wish
to
sew
on
a
lace
border
and
hem
the
material
at
the
same
time
the
procedure
is
exactly
the
same
as
with
ordinary
hemming.
Rep’ace
the
presser
foot
with
the
small
hemmer.
The
mate
rial
is
run
into
the
hemmer
while
the
lace
is
fed
through
the
spiral
lying
nearest
to
the
needle
hole.
NB.
Check
that
the
needle
passes
through
both
the
material
and
the
lace.
(Fig.
29.)
As
standard
the
machine
is
equipped
with
a
throat
plate
with
oval
hole,
which
makes
it
possible
for
you
to
sew
biesen
seam.
With
twin
needles
you can
sew
a
great
variety
of
fancy
seams
gathered
and
raised
which
can
be
most
effective
on
dresses,
blouses,
tablecloths,
place
mats,
curtains
and
so
on.
If
you
prefer
a
raised
seam,
use
the
twin-needle
foot
(S
15419,and
the
twin
needle
in
the
box
for
attachments.
The
twin
needle
foot
has
three
grooves
for
the
raised
seams
to
run
in.
You
can
sew
both
straight
and
curved
seams
with
either
foot
(Fig.
30,
31).
Before
you
start
sewing
Before
actually
sewing,
it
is
best
to
ex
periment
a
little
on
a
scrap
piece
of
ma
terial
to
make
sure
you
get
seams
of
the
desired
breadth
and
width.
The
kind
of
seam
produced
depends
largely
on
the
material.
Check
also
to
see
whether
the
weave
permits
sewing
seams
that
cross
each
other
as
not
all
fabrics
allow
this.
It
is
also
impossible,
with
some
ma
terials,
to
sew
a
raised
seam
on
the
bias.
Fig.
30.
Fig.
29.
Fig.
31.
16
Parallel
twin-needle
seams
Raised
seams
with
cord
insertion
To
sew
these
you
need
the
twin-needle
presser
foot
(S
15419)
and
the
raised
seam
attachment
(S
15427).
Fit
the
raised
seam
attachment
in
the
holes
in
the
throat
plate
and
insert
the
cord
as
shown
in
Fig.
32.
When
you
sew,
the
cord
will
be
sewn
in
forming
a
firm
raised
seam
(Fig.
33).
There
are
several
ways
of
guiding
the
work
when
sewing
parallel
raised
seams.
You
can
either
let
a
previous
seam
run
in
one
of the
grooves
on
the
bot
tom
of
the
presser
foot, or
let
it
run
alongside the
edge
of
the
foot
depending
on
the distance
re
quired
between the
seams.
For
sewing
widely
spaced
seams,
the edge
guide
is
useful.
Sewing
corners
and
angles
Leave
the
needle
in
the
material
and
turn
the
work
in
the
required
direction.
The
needle
bar
should
preferably
be
on
the
way
up,
with
only
the
points
of
the
twin
needle
remaining
in
the
material.
Want
to
make
a
rug?
Your
Husqvarna
Rotary
comes
from
Sweden.
So
why
not
make
a
handsome,
longpile
Swedish
rya
rug
on
the
machine?
This
type
of
rug was
not
originally
intended
as
a
floor
covering.
Rya
rugs
were
widely
used
instead
of
animal
furs
on beds
in
the
Middle
Ages
and
later
as
decorative
wall
hangings.
To
day
they
are
widely
used
in
the
Scandinavian
countries
both
as
floor
rugs
and
wall
hangings,
and
the
technique
is
often
employed
to
decorate
cushions
as
well.
Fig. 32.
Fig.
33.
17
This
is
how
you
sew
a
“rye”,
rug
When
making
a
rug
on
the
Husqvarna
Rotary
a
so-
called
weaver’s
reed
is
used
in
combination
with
the
regu
lar
presser
foot
(Fig.
34).
This
reed
is
a
flat
piece
of
steel
with
a
long
slot
and
device
for
locking
the
ends
together.
The
machine
stitches
along
the
slot,
fastening
the
woollen
loops
to
the
rug
base.
In
addition
to
wool
for
the
pile
you
need
a
No.
40
sew
ing
thread
in
the
same
shade
as
the
yarn,
and
a
size
19
or
20
(110
or
120)
needle.
Get
the
thread
tension
as
tight
as
possible
and
set
for
medium-length
stitches.
As
a
base
for
cushions
or
wall
hangings
canvas
can
very
well
be
used,
but
for
rugs
a
heavy
jute
weave
is
best.
Divide
the
base
into
7/16
in.
(11
mm)
squares
with
a
pencil
line,
leaving
about
3/8
in.
(10
mm)
around
the
edges.
Lock
the
ends
of
the
reed
and
wind
the
yarn
loosely
around
it,
in
close
turns.
If
you
wind
too
tightly,
the
nar
row
tongue
of
the
reed
may
come
too
close
to
the
broad
part,
leaving
insufficient
space
for
the
needle
to
stitch
in
and
a
bent
or
broken
needle
may
result.
Push
the
yarn
up
towards
the
middle
of
the
reed,
lower
the
presser
foot
and
sew
along
the
slot
to
fasten
the
loops
to
the
base.
Wind
more
yarn
on
the
reed
changing
colour
as
required
by
the
pattern
and
stitch
again.
Cut
the
loops
as
you
go
along,
without
removing
the
work
from
the
machine.
Open
the
lock
and
move
the
reed
forward
as
you
sew.
As
each
row
is
completed,
turn
the
work
round
and
stitch
back
again,
fastening
the
loops
extra
firmly.
Repeat
the
whole
procedure
row
by
row
until
the
rug
is
finished.
Fig.
34.
*4
‘V
18
Darning
Method
of
decreasing
the
pressure
on
the
presser
foot
A.
Set
the
screw
for
regulating
the
pres
sure
on
the
presser
foot.
B.
Release
the
catch.
C.
Press
to
return
to
the
previous
pres
sure
on
the
presser
foot.
At
the
adjustments
the
presser
foot
lifter
must
be
lowered.
Darning
and
mending
can
be
done
quickly
and
easily
on
the
Husqvarna
Rotary.
The
quick
release
of
pressure
on
the
presser
foot
enables
the
standard
presser
foot
to
be
used
for
this
operation,
instead
of
changing
over
to
the
special
darning
foot,
thus
saving
time.
A
simple
turn
of
hand
releases
the
pressure
on
the
presser
foot
and
when
the
darning
or
mending
is
finished
a
similar
simple
movement
returns
the
presser
bar
to
its
previous
position.
The
method
of
darning
is
identical
with
that
used
with
the
darning
foot,
S
15103,
which
may
still
be
used
if
preferred,
but
this
necessitates
the
changing
of
the
foot.
Techniques
vary
depending
on
whether
you
are
doing
ordinary
darning,
darning
edges
or
corners,
or
darning
to
reproduce
a
pattern.
But
there
are
certain
basic
rules
which
are
common
to
all
these
operations.
Basic
roles
1.
It
is
important
that
you
select
a
suitable
needle
and
thread
that
really
matches
it.
For
darning,
a
special
thread
should
be
used
which
you
can
obtain
from
your
Husqvarna
dealer.
2.
Thread
tension
is
important
too.
A
lighter
tension
of
the
upper
thread
is
required
for
darning
than
for
almost
any
other
operation.
ou
can
obtain
the
right
tension
by
experimenting
a
little;
but
do
not
alter
the
lower
thread
tension
unless
it
is
absolutely
necessary.
3.
The
feed
dog
should
be
lowered
so
you
can
make
the
stitches
as
required.
4.
Use
the
embroidery
hoop
that
comes
with
the
machine,
stretching
the
fabric
over
it
and
securing
it
firmly.
To
make
sure
that
the
material
does
not
slip,
it
may
be
well
to
bind
the
inner
ring
of
the
hoop
with
tape.
Such
binding
is
also
useful
for
holding
the
temporary
threads
used
when
darning
edges.
5.
When
the
material
has
been
stretched
over
the
hoop,
place
the
work
under
the
darning
foot
and
lower
the
presser
bar.
Don’t
forget
to
lower
the
foot,
otherwise
you
viii
get
loops
on
the
wrong
side
of
the
darn.
6.
Bring
the
lower
thread
out
on
top
of
the
material,
and
after
locking
the
threads
with
a
couple
of
stitches,
cut
them
off.
Fig.
35.
19
Ordinary
darning
Darning
an
edge
Start
by
sewing
backwards
and
forwards
over
the
hole,
making
long
stitches
across
the
fabric
(that
is,
in
the
direction
of
the
selvage).
Since
the
feed
dog
is
inoperative,
you
have
to
move
the
work
by
hand.
The
quicker
you
move
it,
the
longer
will
be
the
stitches.
The
darned
spot
will
be
stronger
and
less
visible
if
the
stitches
run
off
unevenly
into
the
fabric.
When
you
have
stitched
in
one
direc
tion,
turn
the
work
around
a
quarter
turn
and
work
across.
See
Fig.
36.
Filling
in
can
be
done
lengthwise,
on
the
bias,
or
round
in
circles
all
depending
on
the
fabric.
Move
the
work
slowly,
to
keep
the
stitches
short,
and
see
that
they
match
the
material.
For
a
big
hole
you
can
use
gauze
as
a
base.
Fold
a
piece
double
and
lay
it
over
the
hole,
then
run
a
row
of
stitching
around
it
about
1/4
in.
(6
mm)
from
the
edge
of
the
hole,
and
trim
off.
This
saves
you
the
trouble
of
“weaving”
all
you
need
to
do
is
to
fill
in.
With
the
wrong
side
uppermost,
stretch
the
fabric
in
the
hoop
so
that
the
hole
comes
in
the
middle
(Fig.
37).
Then
take
a
needle
and
thread
and
lace
the
free
edge
to
the
taped
innerring
of
the
hoop.
Having
placed
the
work
in
the
machine,
bring
up
and
lock
the
threads
at
the
edge
of
the
hole,
and
stitch
four
times
up
and
down
along
the
line
of
the
new
edge.
Move
the
work
quickly
to
make
these
stitches
long.
Then
continue
stitching
parallel
to
the
edge
until
the
hole
is
covered.
Fill
in
with
short
stitches
(mo
ving
the
work
slowly)
running
at
right
angles
to
the
edge,
and
finally
reinforce
the
edge
by
stitching
along
it
a
couple
of
times.
Fig.
36.
Fig.
37.
20
Darning
corners
The
simplest
way
to
mend
worn
corners
is
to
use
tarla
tan
or
gauze
as
a
foundation.
Stretch
the
gauze
in
the
hoop
with
the
worn
corner
on
top
of
it
(Fig.
38).
First
sew
around
the
edges,
and
then
darn
the
worn
part
in
the
way
best
suited
to
the
fabric.
Sometimes
buttonhole
or
plain
stitching
should
be
used
to
reinforce
the
edges.
Trim
off
the
gauze
when
you
have
finished.
Darning
a
patterned
fabric
If
the
fabric
has
a
pattern
woven
into
it,
you
can
hide
the
repair
as
follows
(Fig.
39).
Darn
the
hole
first,
then
draw
the
missing
pattern
with
a
pencil.
Remove
the
dar
ning
foot,
and
fill
in
the
pattern
by
stitching
at
right
angles
to
the
stitches
of
the
darn.
If
you
follow
the
pattern
closely
it
will
stand
out
and
the
darn
will
be
less
noticeable.
Fig.
38.
Fig.
39.
21
A
sewing
machine
needs
proper
care
Look
after
your
Husqvorna
Rotary
It’s
surprising
how
many
people
have
never
taken
the
trouble
to
find
out
how
a
sewing
machine
should
be
cared
for.
True,
sewing
ma
chines
are
unusually
tough
pieces
of
equipment,
which
will
go
on
working
for
years
without
being
oiled
or
cleaned.
But
they
don’t
like
it,
and
they
proclaim
their
dislike
by
running
roughly
and
making
a
whining,
scraping
noise.
Like
any
precision-made
machine,
the
Husqvarna
Rotary
will
always
ope
rate
smoothly,
silently
and
efficiently
if
it
is
properly
attended
to
and
oiled
regu
larly.
j
Fig.
40.
22
Oiling
The
arrows
on
the
pictures
opposite
(Fig.
40)
show
where
the
machine
should
get
a
drop
of
oil
once
a
week
if
it
conti
nuously
in
use.
If
used
only
occasionally,
oil
every
three
months.
Oil
extremely
sparingly.
Overoiling
doesn’t
help
it
causes
the
oil
to
run
out,
and
stain
the
work
when
you
are
sewing.
Other
places
where
the
machine
needs
oiling
occasionally
are
shown
by
arrows
in
Fig.
41.
The
jam-proof
shuttle
never
needs
oiling
except
the
centre
post
of
the
shuttle
(A,
Fig.
11)
which
you
can
give
a
drop
of
oil
from
time
to
time.
Cleaning
To
clean
the
machine,
use
the
brush
you
will
find
in
the
attachment
box.
Open
the
cover
plate
at
the
left
end
of
the
upper
arm
and
brush
off
the
fuzz
that
has
accumulated
in
the
mechanism.
Then
screw
of
the
throat
plate
und
brush
the
feed
dag
clean
brushing
underneath
the
teeth
as
well
as
between
them
(Fig.
42).
Fig.
41.
Fig.
42.
23
How
to
remedy
some
of
the
most
common
sewing
machine
troubles
Machine
running
roughly:
1.
Cause
may
be
lubrication
with
low-
grade
or
unsuitable
oil.
Pour
a
few
drops
of
kerosene
in
each
oil
hole
and
let
the
machine
run
for
a
few
seconds.
Then
oil
with
high-grade
sewing
ma
chine
oil.
2.
Drive
belt
may
be
too
tight.
Call
your
Husqvarna
dealer.
Machine
not
feeding
properly?
1.
Make
sure
the
stitch
length
guide
(17,
Fig.
1)
is
not
set
at
0.
2.
Feed
dog
may
be
lowered.
Drop
feed
knob
(19,
Fig.
1)
should
be
turned
so
that
the
stitch
symbol
is
in
front.
3.
Insufficient
pressure
on
the
pressure
foot.
Increase
the
pressure
by
turning
the
regulating
screw
(A,
Fig.
35)
to
the
right.
Bobbin
winding
irregularly:
1.
See
if
the
machine
is
correctly
threaded
for
winding.
2.
The
thread
may
not
line
between
the
tension
discs
(C,
Fig.
6).
3.
Tension
device
may
not
be
set in
cor
rect
position.
See
page
4.
Upper
thread
breaks:
1.
Needle
not
inserted
correctly.
See
Fig.
3.
2.
Machine
not
threaded
properly.
See
Fig.
12.
3.
Tension
on
the
upper thread too
tight.
See
page
7.
4.
Knots
in
thread.
5.
Needle
to
fine
for
the
thread
used.
See
Table.
page
2.
6.
Needle
bent
or
point
broken.
Change
needle.
7.
Edges
of
the
stitch
hole
in
the
throat
plate
may
be
nicked
and
sharp.
Either
hone
them
smooth
or
get
a
new
plate.
Lower
thread
breaks:
1.
Bobbin
case
not
inserted
correctly.
See
page
3.
2.
Lower
thread
tension
too
hard.
See
page
5.
3.
Bobbin
case
not
threaded
correctly.
See
page
5.
4.
Bobbin
wound
unevenly.
5.
Bobbin
wound
too
fully.
6.
Poor
quality
thread.
7.
Damaged
hole
in
the
throat
plate.
Hone
or
replace
plate.
Lower
thread
doesn’t
come
up.
1.
Needle
inserted
incorrectly.
See
Fig.
3.
24
Needle
breaks:
1.
Don’t
try
help
feeding
by
pulling
the
fabric.
If
you
do,
the
needle
may
easily
hit
the
throat
plate
and
break
off.
Machine
sewing
poorly:
I.
Needle
bent
or
blunted.
Insert
new
needle.
2.
Needle
inserted
incorrectly.
See
Fig.
3.
3.
Machnne
threaded
incorrectly.
Se
page
6.
4.
Wrong
size
of
needle
used.
See
Table,
page
2.
5.
Thread
too
heavy
for
the
needle.
6.
Insufficient
pressure
on
the
presser
foot,
especially
when
sewing
thick
fabrics.
Turn
the
pressure
regulating
screw
(A,
Fig.
35)
to
the
right.
7.
Bobbin
unevenly
wound.
See
page
4.
8.
Upper
thread
tension
not
properly
adjusted.
See
page
7.
9.
Lower
thread
too
heavy.
Should
at
least
be
of
the
same
size
as
the
upper
thread,
or
a
little
finer.
10.
Upper
thread
or
needle
not
suited
to
the
material.
See
Table,
page
2.
Stitching
loosely
with
loops
at
the
underside
of
the
material:
1.
Machine
not
threaded
correctly.
See
page
6.
2.
Presser
foot
not
let
down
properly.
3.
Upper
thread
tension
too
light.
See
page
7.
4.
Thread
take-up
spring
(12,
Fig.
1)
bent
or
broken
off.
Adjust
or
replace
it.
Thread
tension
uneven:
1.
Poor
quality
thread
is
a
likely
cause.
Wrinkling
of
material:
1.
Needle
thread
tension
too
tight.
2.
Needle
and
bobbin
thread
tensions
too
tight
for
material
used.
3.
Presser
foot
pressure
too
great.
Turn
regular
screw
to
left
(A,
Fig.
35).
Stitches
of
varying
lengths:
1.
Feed
dog
is
clogged
with
lint.
Clean
it
out
(See
page
23).
2.
Worn
teeth
in
feed
dog.
Replace
feed
dog.
Loosely
stitched
seams:
1.
Upper
(needle)
and
lower
(bobbin)
thread
tensions
too
loose.
See
page
7.
Cloth
gets
chewed
up:
1.
Too
much
pressure
on
the
presser
foot.
Reduce
by
turning
the
pressure
regulating
screw
(A,
Fig.
35).
25
Table
of
contents:
Appliqué
15
Basting
13
Bobbin
case
Inserting
6
Removing
from
shuttle
3
Threading
5
Bobbin
winding
4
Braiding
15
Cleaning
Corner
turning
Darning
19—21
Edge
guide
10
Embroidery
Solid
raised
stitching
15
Feed
dog
7
Felled
seams
13
Finishing
off
9
Gathering
12
Marking
13
Needle
Page
Inserting
of
needle
3
Selection
of
needle
2
Oiling
23
Piping
15
Quilting
and
marking
10
Reduction
gear
8
Rugmaking
17—18
23
Sewing
with
twin
needles
16
Stitching
Forward
and
reverse
9
Stitch
length
setting
9
Stitched
edges
11
Thread
Selection
2
Tension
5,
7
Troubles
Causes
and
remedies
24—25
Tucks
11
Zippers
attaching
Ii
Page
26
26
Fig.
2.
Spedal
attachments
can
be
supplied
upon
request
at
extra
cost
3Q19
Gathering
foot
S
15395
Presser
foot
for
zip
fastener
S
15420
Edge
guide
S
12111
Screw
for
attachments
3035
Hemmer
for
straight
stitching
S
15419
Twin-needle
foot
with
3
grooves
S
15426
Twin-needle
foot
with
I
groove
3Q05
Piping
attachment
3002
Hemmer
32”
straight
seam
3028
Embroidery
frame,
dia.
4”
3Q29
Embroidery
frame,
dia.
6”
3030
Embrotderv
frame,
dia.
8”
9001
Weaver’s
reed
Twin-needle
with
a”
needle
spread
:33—
27

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