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Energy Distribution 2015 25
dramatically affect stove performance, the problems
are typically temporary and solve themselves once the
weather changes.
If you question whether your stove is producing
adequate heat, the best way to troubleshoot the
problem is to monitor the temperature of the stack no
more than 12 inches (30 cm) above the flue collar. A
400° F (200° C) stovepipe confirms the stove is
supplying sufficient heat. Keep in mind that your house
itself will regulate room/house temperatures. How well
the walls, floors and ceilings are insulated, the number
and size of windows, the tightness of outside doors,
and the construction or style of your house (vaulted
ceilings or other open spaces which collect large
percentages of heat, ceiling fans, etc.) all are
determining factors of room temperature.
Your stove's performance is also dependent on its
installation. One common cause of poor
performance is an oversized chimney flue. Oversized
chimney flues result in decreased draft, which
prevents the smoke from rising out the chimney.
Oversized flues are also more difficult to heat
effectively, especially when burning a high efficiency
stove. Cool flue temperatures inhibit the establishment
of a strong draft (and encourage the accumulation of
creosote). The lack of a strong draft will cause the fire
to die down and may even force smoke to pour into
the room.
If your chimney is the proper size and a strong draft is
not easily established, there is the possibility that the
chimney is too cold. Again, hot chimneys promote
stronger drafts. Opening a window briefly in the room
while lighting the stove may help.
Other draft guidelines are as follows:
An "AIRTIGHT" HOUSE: The air supply (infiltration) to
the interior of the house may be inadequate if your
home is super-insulated or especially well sealed. This
phenomenon of air starvation within the building is
exacerbated if exhaust fans, such as clothes dryers,
bathroom fans or cook stove exhaust fans, are in
operation within the home. Outfitting your stove with an
optional outside air dispenser, which leads to the
outside of the building, can correct this problem.
Tall Trees or Buildings: These obstructions, when
located close to the top of the chimney can cause
chronic or occasional downdrafts. When selecting a
site for a new chimney, consider the placement of
other objects near the proposed chimney location.
Wind Velocity: Generally, the stronger and
steadier a wind, the stronger (better) the draft.
However, "gusty" wind conditions can cause erratic
downdrafts. For consistent problems, consider a
high wind cap, such as the Vacu-Stack.
Barometric Pressure: Chimney drafts are typically
sluggish on balmy, wet or muggy days (low
barometric pressure). This is a weather-related
phenomenon, which generally is self-correcting as
the weather changes.
Briskness of Fire: The hotter the fire in your stove,
the hotter your chimney and, therefore, the stronger
the draft.
Breaks in the Venting System: An unsealed
clean-out door at the bottom of the chimney, leaky
stovepipe joints, a poor stovepipe-to-thimble
connection, missing caps, or a leaky chimney all
can cause inadequate draft.
Seasonal Factors: Early fall and late spring are
generally difficult seasons in which to establish
proper drafts. The colder the outside air is relative
to room temperature, the stronger the draft.
OPERATING THE STOVE
As outlined above, there are days when a good draft
is just not easy to establish. The causes are usually
seasonal factors or a cold chimney. Try starting the
fire by using small kindling and fuel to obtain a
quick, hot fire. Tend the fire frequently with small
fuel until the chimney is hot and the draft is well
established. Sometimes, partially opening a first
floor window briefly will help quickly get draft
established.
25

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