Bedienungsanleitung Makita MT191 (Seite 7 von 48) (Deutsch, Englisch, Holländisch, Dänisch, Französisch, Italienisch, Portugiesisch, Spanisch)

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plate is flush with the back side of the gauge base.

Check this alignment carefully to ensure uniform

cutting.

5. Slip the heel of the adjusting plate into the groove of

the drum. (Fig. 9)

6. Set the drum cover over the adjusting plate/set plate

and screw in the three bolts so that a gap exists

between the drum and the set plate to slide the mini

planer blade into position. The blade will be positioned

by the planer blade locating lugs on the set plate.

7. The blade’s lengthwise adjustment will need to be

manually positioned so that the blade ends are clear

and equidistant from the housing on one side and the

metal bracket on the other.

8. Tighten the three bolts (with the socket wrench

provided) and rotate the drum to check clearances

between the blade ends and the tool body.

9. Check the three bolts for final tightness.

10. Repeat procedures 1 - 9 for the other blade.

For the correct planer blade setting

Your planing surface will end up rough and uneven,

unless the blade is set properly and securely. The blade

must be mounted so that the cutting edge is absolutely

level, that is, parallel to the surface of the rear base.

Refer to some examples below for proper and improper

settings.

Connecting a vacuum cleaner (for

European countries only) (Fig. 10)

When you wish to perform clean planing operation,

connect a Makita vacuum cleaner to your tool. Then

connect a hose of the vacuum cleaner to the nozzle as

shown in the figures.

OPERATION

Hold the tool firmly with one hand on the knob and the

other hand on the switch handle when performing the tool.

Planing operation (Fig. 11)

First, rest the tool front base flat upon the workpiece

surface without the blades making any contact. Switch on

and wait until the blades attain full speed. Then move the

tool gently forward. Apply pressure on the front of tool at

the start of planing, and at the back at the end of planing.

Planing will be easier if you incline the workpiece in

stationary fashion, so that you can plane somewhat

downhill.

The speed and depth of cut determine the kind of finish.

The power planer keeps cutting at a speed that will not

result in jamming by chips. For rough cutting, the depth of

cut can be increased, while for a good finish you should

reduce the depth of cut and advance the tool more slowly.

Shiplapping (Rabbeting) (Fig. 12)

To make a stepped cut as shown in the figure, use the

edge fence (guide rule). (Fig. 13)

Draw a cutting line on the workpiece. Insert the edge

fence into the hole in the front of the tool. Align the blade

edge with the cutting line. (Fig. 14)

Adjust the edge fence until it comes in contact with the

side of the workpiece, then secure it by tightening the

screw. (Fig. 15)

When planing, move the tool with the edge fence flush

with the side of the workpiece. Otherwise uneven planing

may result.

Maximum shiplapping (rabbeting) depth is 9 mm.

(Fig. 16)

You may wish to add to the length of the fence by

attaching an extra piece of wood. Convenient holes are

provided in the fence for this purpose, and also for

attaching an extension guide (optional accessory).

(A) Front base (Movable shoe)

(B) Rear base (Stationary shoe)

Correct setting

Although this side view cannot show

it, the edges of the blades run

perfectly parallel to the rear base

surface.

Nicks in surface

Cause: One or both blades fails to

have edge parallel to rear

base line.

Gouging at start

Cause: One or both blade edges

fails to protrude enough in

relation to rear base line.

Gouging at end

Cause: One or both blade edges

protrudes too far in relation

to rear base line.

(A)

(B)

(A)

(B)

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