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Scott Trekking - 2017 Seite 47

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TREKKING AND TREKKING-PEDELEC | ORIGINAL OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS 2017ORIGINAL OPERATING INSTRUCTIONS 2017 | TREKKING AND TREKKING-PEDELEC
| 92
If you have V-brakes and cantilever brakes hook up the brake cable at the brake
arm. To do this, grip the rim with one hand and press the brake pads and/or the
brake arms together. In this position the usually barrel shaped nipple can easily
be engaged (e).
If you have disc brakes, check before mounting the wheel whether the brake
pads rest snugly in their seats in the brake calliper body. The gaps between the
brake pads and the wheel should be parallel and the wear indicators in their
correct position (f). Make sure you guide the rotor carefully between the brake
pads.
If your bicycle has a multi-speed hub, back-pedal, drum or roller brakes, verify
the proper assembly of the individual components and tension the chain before
tightening the wheel nuts by pulling the wheel backwards.
Verify that the amount of play midway between sprockets and chainring is not
more than two centimetres. Make sure there is no excessive chain slack! Finish
by tightening the torque support (“brake torque arm“) to the prescribed torque
value.
All brakes:
After mounting the wheel and tightening the quick-release pull the brake lever
(several times, if you have disc brakes).
Lift your SCOTT bike off the ground and spin the wheel with your hand. With
the wheel spinning the rotor should not drag along the brake calliper or the
brake pads and the rim should keep off the (rim) brake pads.
DANGER!
G
If you have rim brakes, make sure you hook up the brake cable immediately
after the wheel mounting!
DANGER!
G
Before setting off again check that the brake surfaces and/or rotors are still
free of grease or other lubricants after the wheel mounting.
DANGER!
G
Check whether the brake pads hit the rotors or brake surfaces of the rims.
Make sure the wheel is properly seated and firmly fixed in the drop-outs.
Always do a brake test as described in the chapter “Tests before every ride“!
Work the tyre into the rim by approaching the valve symmetrically from both
sides. Towards the end, you will have to pull the tyre vigorously downwards (a)
to make the already mounted portion of the tyre slip towards the deepest part
of the rim well. This will ease the job noticeably on the last centimetres.
Before fitting the tyre completely on the rim check again whether the inner tube
lies properly inside the tyre and press the last stretch of tyre over the edge of
the rim using the balls of your thumbs.
If this does not work, you will have to use the tyre levers (b). Make sure the bent
ends point towards the inner tube and the inner tube does not get damaged.
Push the valve subsequently a little into the tyre so that the inner tube does
not get caught between the rim and the tyre beads. Check whether the valve
stands upright. If not, dismount one bead again and reposition the inner tube.
To make sure the inner tube does not get pinched between the rim and the
bead, move the tyre sideways back and forth between the sides of the rim.
While doing so, also check whether the rim tape has shifted.
Inflate the inner tube to the desired pressure. The maximum pressure is indicat-
ed on the side of the tyre.
Check whether the tyre is properly seated by inspecting the fine witness line
just above the rim edge. This line should be even to the rim all around the tyre
(c). If it is not, deflate the tyre a little and check again. Starting from the maxi-
mum tyre pressure you can now reduce the pressure through the valve to suit
your needs. Observe the recommended tyre pressure range.
REMOUNTING THE WHEEL
Mounting the wheel is done in the reverse order of dismounting. Make sure the
wheel is correctly seated in the drop-outs and accurately centred between the
fork legs or the seat and chainstays. Make sure that the quick-release and the
drop-out catches are correctly seated (d). For more information see the chapter
“Using quick-releases”.
b ca e fd
… 47 …

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