Bedienungsanleitung Winora Algemene (Seite 71 von 140) (Englisch)

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Remove the burrs from the valve hole of an aluminium rim or countersink it

with a big drill, a triangular scraper or a round file. If you have carbon rims, be

careful when removing the burrs from the hole edge with a round file. Insert

the file only from the outside to the inside and not vice versa, otherwise the

fibres of the synthetic matrix might fray out. Seal the area with instant glue

subsequently. This pretreatment will lead to an improved valve fitting to the

rim. If time allows, you can leave the unglued tyre inflated on the rim for a few

days to make the final mounting easier.

Clean the base of the rim from any grease or oil using a rag soaked in spirit

or benzine. Wait for the solvent to evaporate completely before you start to

glue the tyre onto the rim. Gluing the tyre is easiest with the wheel clamped

in a truing stand or mounted on an old fork clamped in a vice.

With liquid tyre glue you will need several layers to create a good adhesive

bed. Spread the tyre glue evenly and as thinly as possible around almost the

entire circumference of the rim. Leave a section of five to ten centimetres

without glue at a place opposite the valve to make it easier to remove the

tyre again at a later time. With a little practice you will be able to apply the

glue straight from the tube . If this does not work at first you might find it

easier to use a stiff brush. If you are using tyre glue from a can you will need

a brush in any case.

Allow the tyre glue to dry until a finger test will proof that it is tacky-dry. This

can take up to a few hours. In the same way add another two thin films of

glue and let them dry. Leave the wheel as it is until at least the next day.

Before mounting the tyre also apply a film of glue to the base tape. To com-

plete the adhesive bed add one last film of glue.

Let the topmost coat flash off for a short moment, but not dry, and place the

wheel on the ground with the valve hole facing upwards. Inflate the tyre until

it starts to round and then stick the valve through the valve hole of the rim

and press it firmly against the rim. Make sure the sides of the tyre do not

touch the adhesive bed, as your tyre will otherwise look smudgy right away.

If you have taken care to leave the section opposite the valve hole free of

glue, you need not be concerned about glue smearing on the ground or dirt

getting into the glue when you place the wheel on the ground.

Take hold of the tyre right and left of the valve with both hands, pull it vigor-

ously downward and work it bit by bit into the base of the rim until you

have about 20 centimetres left to go.

Starting from the top again on either side of the valve pull the tyre down

with your hands, letting them gradually slip down to the yet unmounted sec-

tion. Keeping the tyre taut by holding your fingers against the rim and your

thumbs on the tyre, brace the wheel against your hips. Heave the tyre into

the base of the rim with your two thumbs.

When the tyre is seated in the base the next job is to centre it, as it will rarely

run true right away. Clamp the wheel in the mounting stand again and spin it

. If the tread does not run accurately in the centre or if there is any lateral

swerving of the tubular, lift it in that area, twist it a little and place it down

again.

When the tyre runs smoothly in the centre take the wheel off the mounting

stand and inflate the tyre to approximately half its nominal pressure. Lean

your hands on the ends of the axle and quick-release skewers and roll the

wheel a few metres on the ground . As you roll the wheel, vary between

pressing it vertically downward and at a slant to one and to the other side.

If the tyre still runs true during the final check, inflate it to its maximum pres-

sure and wait 8 hours at least or even better a whole day, before setting off

for the first time.

 

Mounting the wheel is done in the reverse order of dismounting. Make sure

the wheel is correctly seated in the drop-outs  and accurately centred

between the fork legs or the seat and chain stays.

Make sure the quick-release, the drop-out safety tabs and the thru axle, if

available, are correctly seated. For more information see chapter 



If you have rim brakes, make sure you hook the brake cable

back up immediately!

The brake of a road racing bicycle needs to be retightened!

Mount the hydraulic rim brakes and close its quick-release

immediately after fixing the wheel! Make sure the brake pads

touch the rim and not the tyre or the spokes.

If you have disc brakes, check before mounting the wheel whether the brake

pads rest snugly in their seats in the brake calliper body. The gaps between

the brake pads and the wheel should be parallel and the wear indicators

in their correct position. Make sure you guide the rotor between the brake

pads carefully.

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