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If the rubber o-ring/cable tie has moved along the entire travel range or if you
can hear the rear shock hit the end of its travel, the spring is too soft. In this
case the initial spring tension/pressure must be increased. If the adjustment
range is too small, have the springs replaced by your bicycle dealer. The
rear shock should not reach the end of its travel (bottom out), which can
usully be heard clearly. If the rear shock frequently reaches bottom out, it will
become damaged over time.
Check the pressure at regular intervals and follow the recommendations of
the manufacturer. If the available setting options do not cover your needs,
you will need to replace the springs or dampers. Many manufacturers have
tuning and retrofitting kits on offer. If you are in doubt or if you have any
questions, please contact your bicycle dealer! When replacing any parts be
sure to only use parts that bear the appropriate mark and, to be on the safe
side, original spare parts. Your bicycle dealer will be pleased to help you!
Almost all manufacturers deliver their dampers/rear shocks with
instructions. Read them carefully before changing any settings
or doing any maintenance work on your rear shock.
The rear shock should be set up and adjusted in such a way that
it does not reach the end of its travel (known as bottom out). A
spring rate which is too soft (or too low an air pressure) can usual-
ly be heard or felt as a “clunk” type noise. This noise is caused by
the sudden complete compression of the rear shock as it reaches
bottom out. If the rear shock frequently reaches bottom out, it will
become damaged over time, and so will the frame.
Rear shocks are mounted on full-suspension frames (a) in a way
that they absorb shocks from the terrain. If the damper is too
rigid and jammed, the terrain induced shocks pass directly into
the frame without any damping. The frame is normally not de-
signed to withstand such undamped stresses. If your bicycle
is equipped with a rear shock including lockout (b), you must
therefore keep in mind not to activate the lockout function when
riding over rough terrain, but only when riding over smooth ter-
rain (tarred roads, smooth tracks).
9.3.3 Adjusting the Damping Control
The damping is adjusted by valves inside. These valves are designed to
modify the flow rate of the oil and hence the speed with which the rear swing
arm moves in and out. In this way it is possible to optimise the bicycle’s
reaction to obstacles. Furthermore, any oscillatory movement of the rear
frame while pedalling can be reduced. For long uphill rides involving hard
pedalling in sitting it is advisable to eliminate the damping. For this purpose
some rear shock models are fitted with a lockout device. For downhill rides
on uneven ground the lockout mechanism must not be activated.
Rear shocks with adjustable damping are fitted with an adjusting knob that
is (mainly) red to slow down or accelerate the rebound movement (c+d).
The second knob, if available, is to adjust the speed of the compression
movement.
a
b
c
d
The adjusting process changes the flow rate of the oil contained within
the suspension fork as it passes through valves and chambers internally.
Some models provide for separate adjustment of compression and rebound
damping. Experience has shown that it is best to begin with the compres-
sion stage entirely open and to first adjust the rebound stage.
Adjusting the suspension fork is a delicate job, as even a small change on
the adjuster can have a big effect. Try approaching the exact setting you
need in increments no larger than a quarter turn from the “Open”-position.
Rebound is considered satisfactory when the rear frame cycles once after
descending from a high kerb. If you turn the knob too far, the oil inside will
flow very slowly and the rebound will be at maximum. This will result in a
sluggish rebound movement, and the rear shock will not recover when ex-
posed to a quick series of impacts.
Turning the adjusting knob in the other direction reduces rebound, making
the rear shock rebound faster. Once this is done, adjust the compression
stage. This is to control the rate at which the rear shock compresses. Ad-
justing the compression adjuster towards the closed or maximum position
will give you a firmer, less active ride. Take your mountain bike for a test ride
on different kinds of surface (a).
If the rear shock hits the end of its travel (bottom out) several times, you will
need to change its spring rate, i.e. to increase the pressure (b). Make sure
not to exceed the maximum pressure indicated on the rear shock.
If the damping does not suit your needs, inspite of your adjusting, or if in the
case of coil spring elements you need more than three to four turns for the
initial spring tension, you may need to replace the suspension elements. The
replacement is a job best left to your bicycle dealer.
Do not actuate the lockout function (c) (of the rear shock) when
riding over rough terrain, but only when riding over smooth ter-
rain (roads, smooth tracks).
Do not turn any screws on your rear shock in the vague hope of
adjusting it somehow. You could release the fastening mecha-
nism, thus causing an accident. All manufacturers normally
mark adjustment devices with a scale or “+” and “-“ signs.
Rear shock manufacturers normally include instructions with
their deliveries (d). Read them carefully before changing any
settings or doing any maintenance work on your rear shock.
A too strong damping can result in a sluggish rebound move-
ment with a rear shock that will not recover when exposed to a
quick series of impacts. Risk of an accident!
Do not ride your bicycle, if the rear shock reaches bottom out.
This could damage the rear shock itself as well as the frame.
a
b
c
d
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