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11 Dirt-, Freeride-, Downhill-Bikes

– Special Features

Not all mountain bikes that look like a dirt, freeride or downhill

bike are actually sports equipment! Mountain bikes of the dirt

line (DRT) are not suitable for hard use!

Dirt biking, freeriding, fourcross, dual slalom and downhill riding are among

the most challenging sports that you can perform. Jumps, riding the stairs,

downhill races and sharp bends in difficult or extremely rough terrain etc. are

an undue stress for rider and material and require a highly durable bicycle

with full-suspension. A cross-country, touring or marathon mountain bike

would fail under such undue stress and cause a serious accident. Ask your

bicycle dealer for a bicycle that is suitable for the type of sport you intend

to perform.

Dirt, fourcross, dual slalom, downhill and freeride bicycles are

true-bred sports bicycles (a+b). For your own safety, do not

overestimate your cycling skills. Please note that though look-

ing easy the tricks of a professional (c) are hazardous to your life

and limb. Always protect yourself with appropriate and suitable

clothing (d).

Even though the above-mentioned specialized types of bicycles are built for

sport cycling and hard use, their resistance to stress is limited.

In particular the following actions may cause an undue stress for the material

and result in a failure:

· Incorrect jumps on sharp edges, jumps with a landing on the front wheel,

too short jumps or tricks that are not completed before the landing

· Landing on the counter slope or between two slopes; on flat terrain

jumps with rotation crossways to the track or with hands not on the

handlebars/feet off the pedals

Be sure to also avoid the following, as this would put too much stress on the

material resulting in premature wear or failure:

· Undue stress for the chain by riding with too low chain tension

· Inappropriate grinding (sliding on chain or chainring)

· Undue stress for the wheels by riding with too low air pressure

· Undue stress for the frame and bicycle parts by riding with a too soft

suspension or sliding on frame and drop-outs

Due to the specific intended use, some dirt bikes are fitted with

only one brake.

11.1 Adjusting the Correct Saddle Height

Dirt, freeride, dual slalom and downhill bicycles etc. require different saddle

adjustments, according to the specific use. The seating position cannot be

compared to that on other bicycles; it is maximum control and movability

that counts when riding one of the aforementioned bicycles.

When you set off for a long cycling tour, the saddle should be set to a height

which gives maximum pedalling comfort and efficiency. When pedalling, the

ball of your foot should be positioned above the centre of the pedal spindles

(a). With your feet in this position you should not be able to stretch your legs

completely straight at the lowest point, otherwise your pedalling will become

awkward.

You can check the height of your saddle in the following, simple way. This

is best done wearing flat-soled shoes. Sit on the saddle and put one of your

heels on the pedal at its lowest point (b). In this position your leg should be

fully stretched and your hips should remain horizontal.

For dirt biking, freeriding, downhill racing etc. the saddle is set to a very low

height (c) with a rearward tilt (d). Ask your trainer, a competent person in

your club or your bicycle dealer for the correct seating position.

A lower saddle is advisable in particular for steep downhill riding

by mountain bike. However, prolonged riding with a low saddle

may cause knee trouble.

For detailed instructions regarding saddle adjustment see chapter “Adjust-

ing the Bicycle to the Rider”.

After only one season these types of mountain bike may be so

worn that essential and/or supporting parts will already need re-

placing. Have bicycles of this type thoroughly checked by your

bicycle dealer at least every 3 to 4 months.

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