Bedienungsanleitung DeWalt DW716E (Seite 35 von 132) (Deutsch, Englisch, Holländisch, Dänisch, Französisch, Italienisch, Portugiesisch, Spanisch, Polnisch, Türkisch, Schwedisch, Norwegisch, Finnisch)

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Bevel Cuts (fig. A1, A2, N)

Bevel angles can be set from 50° left to 50° right and can be cut with the

mitre arm set between zero and a maximum of 50° mitre position right or

left.

Left Bevel

• Slide the upper part of the left side fence (3) to the left as far as it will

go. Loosen the bevel clamp handle (14) and set the bevel as desired.

• Tighten the bevel clamp handle (14) firmly.

• Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.

Right Bevel

• Slide the upper part of the right side fence (7) to the right as far as it will

go. Loosen the bevel clamp handle (14), pull out the override pin (20),

and set the bevel as desired.

• Tighten the bevel clamp handle (14) firmly.

• Proceed as for a vertical straight cross-cut.

Quality of Cut

The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables, e.g. the

material being cut. When smoothest cuts are desired for moulding and other

precision work, a sharp (60 tooth carbide) blade and a slower,

even cutting rate will produce the desired results.

WARNING: Ensure that the material does not creep while

cutting; clamp itsecurely in place. Always let the blade come to

a full stopbefore raising the arm. If small fibres of wood still split

out atthe rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape

on thewood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape

andcarefully remove tape when finished.

Clamping the Workpiece (fig. A6)

• Whenever possible, clamp the wood to the saw.

• For best results use the clamp (27) made for use with your saw.

Clamp the workpiece to the fence whenever possible. You can clamp to

either side of the saw blade; remember to position your clamp against a

solid, flat surface of fence.

WARNING: Always use a material clamp when cutting non-

ferrous metals.

Support for Long Pieces (fig. A4)

• Always support long pieces.

• For best results, use the extension work support (25) to extend the table

width of your saw (available from your dealer as an option). Support

long workpieces using any convenient means such as

saw-horses or similar devices to keep the ends from dropping.

Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes and Other Four-sided Projects

(fig. O1, O2)

Trim moulding and other frames

Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a “feel” for

your saw. Your saw is the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one shown

in fig. O1. The joint shown has been made using either bevel adjustment.

- Using bevel adjustment

The bevel for the two boards is adjusted to 45° each, producing a 90° corner.

The mitre arm is locked in the zero position. The wood is positioned with the

broad flat side against the table and the narrow edge against the fence.

- Using mitre adjustment

The same cut can be made by mitring right and left with the broad surface

against the fence.

The two sketches (fig. O1, O2) are for four side objects only. As the number

of sides changes, so do the mitre and bevel angles. The chart below gives

the proper angles for a variety of shapes, assuming that all sides are of

equal length. For a shape that is not shown in the chart,

divide 180° by the number of sides to determine the mitre or bevel angle.

No. of sides Angle mitre or bevel

4 45°

5 36°

6 30°

7 25.7°

8 22.5°

9 20°

10 18°

Compound Mitre (fig. P1, P2)

A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle (fig. O2) and a bevel

angle (fig. O1) at the same time. This is the type of cut used to make frames

or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in fig. P1.

WARNING: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut,

check that the bevel clamp knob and the mitre lock knob

are securely tightened. These knobs must be tightened

after making any changes in bevel or mitre (fig. P1, P2).

• The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel

and mitre settings for common compound mitre cuts. To use the chart,

select the desired angle “A” (fig. P2) of your project and locate that

angle on the appropriate arc in the chart. From that point follow the

chart straight down to find the correct bevel angle and straight across

to find the correct mitre angle.

• Set your saw to the prescribed angles and make a few trial cuts.

• Practice fitting the cut pieces together.

• Example: To make a 4 sided box with 25° exterior angles (angle “A”)

(fig. P2), use the upper right arc. Find 25° on the arc scale. Follow the

horizontal intersecting line to either side to get the mitre angle setting on

the saw (23°). Likewise follow the vertical intersecting line to the top or

bottom to get the bevel angle setting on the saw (40°). Always try cuts

on a few scrap pieces of wood to verify the settings on the saw.

SET THIS BEVEL ANGLE ON SAW

SET THIS MITER ANGLE ON SAW

ANGLE OF SIDE OF BOX (ANGLE"A")

SQUARE BOX

6 SIDED BOX

8 SIDED BOX

Vernier Scale (fig. Q1–Q3)

Your saw is equipped with a vernier scale for added precision. For settings

that require partial degrees (1/4°, 1/2°, 3/4°), the vernier scale allows you

to accurately set mitre angles to the nearest 1/4° (15 minutes). To use the

vernier scale follow the steps listed below.

As an example, assume that the angle you want to mitre is 24-1/4° right.

• Switch off the mitre saw.

• Set the mitre angle to the nearest whole degree desired by aligning

the centre mark in the vernier scale, shown in fig. Q1, with the whole

degree number etched in the mitre scale. Examine fig. Q2 closely; the

setting shown is 24° right mitre.

ENGLISH

DeWalt DW716E Seite 35

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