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Bella Barista
Nene Court, The Embankment,Wellingborough, Northants, NN8 1LD
Tel: 01933 273275
e-mail: claudettep@towability.com
© Bella Barista Page 11 of 12
Brew Water Temperature
The Expobar Brewtus II does not run hot as is usual with HX machines, which are a tight
compromise between continuously available steam, and production of brew water for
espresso. The twin boilers solve that problem, the brew water boiler running at around 101c
and the steam boiler at around 121c. The group is fed by the brew water boiler and has the
thermosyphon from there as well, so the group acts much like those on a single boiler
machine. There is no need for a big cooling flush because there is no water sitting in a heat
exchanger at 125c needing to be flushed out before the brew water is cool enough to make
espresso. The E61 group works well on this machine although you still need to flush!
I found that the brew water temperature rises as water is drawn from the group and at around
3 oz (90ml) reaches a plateau at a value similar to that displayed on the digital display (which
I had set to 95). This is for two reasons:
1. The water warms the group (so doesn’t get cooled down as much)
2. There will be some cooler water in the feed pipes to get rid of
This means that a 10-12 second flush would be recommended just prior to pulling a shot and
in practice I found this to give a shot that was not sour, or with too light a crema for the coffee
I was using.
This does beg a little more explanation of the Digital temperature controller. The digital
temperature controller is not a PID (proportional-integral-derivative controller). In many
respects the design of the machine makes it unimportant that this is not a PID (which is very
expensive). The idea of pre warming the water feed to the brew water boiler as it passes
through the steam/hot water boiler, is a great one and prevent those large variations of
temperature in the brew water boiler. The controller has an error of +/- 1c and the thermal lag
is only around 1c, so the temperature doesn’t vary much at all. e.g. if it’s set to 95 the heater
cuts in at 94 and brings it back to 95. This is unlike the 4 or 6 degree difference seen on many
other non heat exchanger prosumer espresso machines!
The temperature displayed is actually less than the actual boiler temperature and is meant to
reflect the temperature of the brew water. So at 95c the water in the boiler will be around 100c
(assuming of course the offset is at the factory default of -5c). The “offset” is what allows this
to happen; the “offset” is a preprogrammed value (which can be changed) of -5c and simply
means that the controller shows a temperature 5 degrees centigrade less than that actually
registered by the thermocouple in the boiler. So 100c in the boiler becomes 95c on the
display. This allows for the fact that by the time the water passes down the pipe and into the
“cooler” E61 group it will chill down by around 5c when it hits the coffee in the portafilter
basket.
It would be tempting to increase the “offset”, having the brew water hotter, the group warmer
and a smaller cooling flush (you may also find it advised to increase the offset on the web).
This is probably not desirable for a number of reasons:
1. Your running the brew water boiler hotter than you need to (all for the sake of pulling
30cc less on the “warming” flush)
2. If you pull more than one shot, or flush too long brew water may get hotter than you
expect (with the correct offset even if you flush longer or pull a number of shots
in a row, the temperature stabilizes at the expected value). With a larger offset
although the temperature will achieve the desired value, flush for too long (or pull
more than one shot and it could exceed it.
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