Bedienungsanleitung Levita CS35 2x20V (Seite 39 von 80) (Deutsch, Englisch)

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Low kick-back saw chain

A low-kick-back saw chain helps to reduce the possibility

of a kickback event.The rakers (depth gauges) ahead of

each cutter can minimize the force of a kick-back reaction

by preventing the cutters from digging in too deeply.

Only use replacement guide bar and chain combinations

recommended by the manufacturer.As saw chains are

sharpened, they lose some of the low kickback qualities

and extra caution is required. For your safety, replace saw

chains when cutting performance decreases.

Spiked Bumper

The integral bumper spike may be used as a pivot when

making a cut. It helps to keep the body of the chain saw

steady while cutting. When cutting, push the machine

forward until the spikes dig into the edge of the wood,

then by moving the rear handle up or down in the

direction of the cutting line it can help ease the physical

strain of cutting.

Guide Bar

Generally, guide bars with small radius tips have

somewhat lower potential for kick-back. You should use a

guide bar and matching chain which is just long enough

for the job. Longer bars increase the risk of loss of control

during sawing. Regularly check the chain tension. When

cutting smaller branches (less than the full length of the

guide bar) the chain is more likely to be thrown oﬀ if the

tension is not correct.

Chain Brake

Chain brakes are designed to quickly stop the chain

from rotating. When the chain brake lever/front hand

guard is pushed towards the bar, the chain should stop

immediately. A chain brake does not prevent kickback.

It only lowers the risk of injury should the chain bar

contact the operator’s body during a kickback event. The

chain brake should be tested before each use for correct

operation in both the run and brake positions.

Chain Catcher

A chain catcher (14) prevents the saw chain from being

thrown back towards the operator if the saw chain comes

loose or breaks.

Instructions concerning the proper

techniques for basic felling, limbing

and cross-cutting (See page 10-14)

Understanding the forces within the

wood

When you understand the directional pressures and

stresses inside the wood you can reduce the “pinches” or

at least expect them during your cutting. Tension in the

wood means the ﬁ bers are being pulled apart and if you

cut in this area, the “kerf” or cut will tend to open as the

saw goes through. If a log is being supported on a saw

horse and the end is hanging unsupported over the end,

tension is created on the upper surface due to the weight

of the overhanging log stretching the ﬁ bers. Likewise, the

underside of the log will be in compression and the ﬁ bers

are being pushed together. If a cut is made in this area,

the kerf will have the tendency to close up during the cut.

This would pinch the blade.

Felling a tree

When bucking and felling operations are being

performed by two or more persons at the same time, the

felling operations should be separated from the bucking

operation by a distance of at least twice the height of the

tree being felled.

Trees should not be felled in a manner that would

endanger any person, strike any utility line, or cause any

property damage.

The chain saw operator should keep on the uphill side of

the terrain as the tree is likely to roll or slide downhill after

it is felled.

If the tree does make contact with any utility line, the

company should be notiﬁ ed immediately.

An escape path should be planned and cleared as

necessary before cuts are started. The escape path should

extend back and diagonally to the rear of the expected

line of fall.

Before felling starts, consider the natural lean of the tree,

the location of larger branches, and the wind direction to

judge which way the tree will fall.

Remove dirt, stones, loose bark, nails, staples, and wire

from the tree.

Do not attempt to fell trees which are rotten or have been

damaged by wind, ﬁ re, lightning, etc. This is extremely

dangerous and should only be completed by professional

tree surgeons.

1. Setting the notches

Make the notch 1/3 the diameter of the tree,

perpendicular to the direction of the fall. Make the

lower horizontal notching cut ﬁ rst. This will help to

avoid pinching either the saw chain or the guide bar

when the second notch is being made.

2. Felling-back cut

Make the felling-back cut at least 50 mm/ 2 in. higher

than the horizontal notching cut. Keep the felling-

back cut parallel to the horizontal notching cut. Make

the felling back cut so enough wood is left to act as a

hinge. The hinge wood keeps the tree from twisting

and falling in the wrong direction.

Do not cut through the hinge.

As the felling gets close to the hinge, the tree should

begin to fall. If there is any chance that the tree may

not fall in the desired direction or it may rock back and

bind the saw chain, stop cutting before the felling-

ENGLISH

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