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Lubricating the chain
During operation there must always be sufficient chain oil in the
chain-oil tank to provide good chain lubrication. One filling is suffi-
cient for about one half-hour of continuous operation. When working,
check that there is still sufficient chain oil in the tank and top up if
necessary. Check only when the engine is switched off!
1 fuel/oil mixture
2chain oil
Adjusting the chain lubrication (Fig. 40)
The engine must be switched off.
You can adjust the oil pump feed rate with the adjusting screw (1).
The amount of oil can be adjusted using the universal wrench.
To ensure troublefree operation of the oil pump the oil guide groove
at the housing (2) and the oil inlet bore in the guide bar (3) must be
cleaned regularly. (Fig. 41)
Checking the chain lubrication (Fig. 42)
Never work with the chain saw without sufficient chain lubrication. Otherwise the ser-
vice life of the chain and guide bar will be reduced.
Before starting work check the oil level in the tank and the oil feed.
Check the oil feed rate as described below: Start the chain saw (see “Starting the
engine”).
Hold the running chain saw approx. 15 cm above a trunk or the ground (use an appro-
priate base).
If the lubrication is sufficient, you will see a light oil trace because oil will be flung off
the sawing device. Pay attention to the direction the wind is blowing and avoid unnec-
essary exposure to the oil spray!
NOTE:
After the saw has been turned off it is normal for residual chain oil to drip from the oil
feed system, the guide bar and the chain for a time. This does not constitute a defect!
Place the saw on a suitable surface.
Starting the engine (Fig. 43)
Do not start the saw until it has been completely assembled and inspected!
Move at least 3 m away from the place where you fuelled the saw.
Make sure you have a good footing, and place the saw on the ground in such a way
that the chain is not touching anything.
Engage the chain brake (lock).
Grasp the rear handle firmly in one hand and hold the saw firmly against the ground.
Press with one knee on the rear handle.
IMPORTANT: The choke lever (5) is coupled to the throttle lever (1). It will revert to its
original position automatically once the throttle lever has been pressed.
If the throttle lever is pressed before the engine starts, then the choke lever (5) will
have to be reset to the appropriate position. (Fig. 44)
Cold start:
Push the short-circuit switch (3) forward.
Turn the choke lever (5) to position . Push primer pump 7-10 times.
Slowly pull out the starter cable (4) until you notice resistance (the piston is positioned
before the top dead centre). (Fig. 44)
Now continue to pull quickly and powerfully. The engine will start after 2 to 4
attempts and will continue to run (at low temperatures, several starting pulls might be
necessary).
CAUTION: Do not pull out the starter cable more than approx. 50 cm, and lead it back
by hand. For efficient starting, it is important to pull the starter cable quickly and pow-
erfully.
As soon as the engine is running smoothly, gently press the throttle lever (1) once
(grasp the handle, the safety locking button (2) will release the throttle lever) this will
cause the choke lever (5) to spring back to its original position and the engine will
then run at idling speed. (Fig. 44)
Now release the chain brake
.
Warm start:
Proceed as described under cold start, but place the choke lever (5) to
position
. (Fig. 44)
Important: If the fuel tank has been completely emptied and the engine has stopped
due to lack of fuel, press the primer pump 7 – 10 times. (Fig. 44)
Stopping the engine
Put the short-circuiting switch (3) in position “STOP”. (Fig. 44)
Checking the chain brake (Fig. 45)
Do not work with the chain saw without first checking the chain brake!
Start the engine as described (make sure you have a good footing, and place the
chain saw on the ground in such a way that the guide bar is free of contact).
Grasp the tubular handle firmly with one hand and hold the grip with the other.
With the engine running at moderate speed, press the hand guard (6) in the direction
of the arrow with the back of your hand until the chain brake engages. The chain
should stop immediately.
Immediately release the throttle and release the chain brake.
IMPORTANT: If the chain does not stop immediately in this test, do not under
any circumstances proceed with work. Contact a MAKITA service center.
Adjusting the carburetor (Fig. 46)
The carburetor eliminates the need to adjust the idle and main nozzles, and no such
adjustment is possible.
If necessary, the idle speed can be adjusted using the adjustment screw (11).
As installed, the carburetor has fixed nozzles for the air pressure at sea level.
At heights above 1000 m/3300 feet it may be necessary to
replace the carburetor nozzles.
Adjust the carburettor using the screwdriver (7, which has a blade
width of 4 mm).
Before undertaking the adjustment, run the engine for 3 – 5 minutes to warm it up, but
not at high speed!
Set idle speed
Turning the adjusting screw (11) in (clockwise): increases the idle speed.
Turning it out (counterclockwise): lowers the idle speed.
Caution: In no case should the chain move.
MAINTENANCE (Fig. 47)
Sharpening the saw chain
CAUTION: Before doing any work on the guide bar or chain, always switch off
the engine and pull the plug cap off the spark plug (see “Replacing the spark
plug”). Always wear protective gloves!
The chain needs sharpening when:
The sawdust produced when sawing damp wood looks like wood flour.
The chain penetrates the wood only under great pressure. The cutting edge is visibly
damaged.
The saw is pulled to the left or right when sawing. This is caused by uneven sharpen-
ing of the chain.
Important: Sharpen frequently, but without removing too much metal!
Generally, 2 or 3 strokes of the file will be enough.
Have the chain resharpened at a service centre when you have already sharpened it
yourself several times.
Proper sharpening: (Fig. 48)
CAUTION: Use only chains and guide bars designed for this saw.
All cutters must be of the same length (dimension a). Cutters with different lengths
result in rough running of the chain and can cause cracks in the chain.
Minimum cutter length is 3 mm. Do not resharpen the chain when the minimum cutter
length has been reached; at this point, the chain must be replaced.
The depth of the cut is determined by the difference in height between the depth lim-
iter (round nose) and the cutting edge.
The best results are obtained with a depth-limiter depth of 0.65 mm (.025”).
CAUTION: Excessive depth increases the risk of kickback!
All cutters must be sharpened to the same angle, 30°. Different angles result in a
roughly, irregularly running chain, increase wear and tear and cause chain beakage.
The 85° front rake of the cutter results from the cut depth of the round file. If the
proper file is used in the right manner, the correct front rake will be obtained automat-
ically. (Fig. 49)
Files and how to work with them (Fig. 50)
Use a special round file for chains (dia. 4 mm) for sharpening the chain. Normal
round files are not appropriate for this work.
The file should cut only when pushed forwards (arrow). Lift the file when leading it
backwards.
First sharpen the shortest cutter. The length of this cutter is then the standard for all
other cutters of the chain.
Always guide the file horizontally (90° to the guide bar).
The file holder makes file guidance easier. It is marked for the correct 30° sharpening
angle (keep the marks parallel with the chain when filing, see illustration) and limits
the cut depth to the correct 4/5 of the file diameter. (Fig. 51)
After having sharpened the chain, the height of the depth limiter must be checked by
means of a chain gauge.
Correct even the smallest excess height with a special flat file (12).
Round off the front of the depth limiter (13). (Fig. 52)
Cleaning the sprocket interior, checking and replacing the chain catcher
(Fig. 53)
CAUTION: Before doing any work on the guide bar or chain, always switch off
the engine and pull the plug cap off the spark plug (see “Replacing the spark
plug”). Always wear protective gloves!
CAUTION: Do not start the saw until it has been completely assembled and
inspected!
Remove the sprocket cover (4) (see section on “PUTTING INTO OPERATION”) and
clean the interior with a brush.
Remove the chain (3) and guide bar (2).
NOTE:
Make sure that no residue or contaminants remain in the oil guide groove (1) and the
chain tightener (6).
For replacing the guide bar, chain, and sprocket, see “PUTTING INTO OPERATION”.
Chain catcher
Visually inspect the chain catcher (5) for damage and replace if necessary.
Cleaning the guide bar, lubricating the sprocket nose (Fig. 54)
CAUTION: Protective gloves must be worn.
Regularly inspect the bearing surfaces of the guide bar for damage, and clean them
with a suitable tool.
STOP
19

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