Bedienungsanleitung Trek 2012 (Seite 66 von 77) (Englisch)

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63 TREK ASSEMBLY MANUAL 27 April 2012

Supporting Information

Truing paired-spoke wheels

In many respects, truing paired-spoke wheels is just like truing a traditionally spoked

wheel. Each spoke has both a vertical and lateral component to its pulling force.

As you tighten a spoke, it pulls the rim radially in towards the hub, and laterally out

towards the hub ange. The dierence is that on a paired-spoke wheel, the lateral

force is directly opposed by each spoke in a given pair.

Some wheels use bladed, non-round spokes. When tightening a nipple on a wheel

with bladed spokes, stabilize the spoke to prevent rotation. Grasp each spoke

with smooth jawed pliers or an adjustable wrench while rotating the nipple with the

Bontrager spoke wrench.

When truing paired-spoke wheels, the design gives you more control over both

vertical and lateral rim deviations. If the rim is slightly out of true but very round, you

can loosen one spoke, and tighten the other, in the pair closest to the rim deviation.

The rim moves laterally, but not up or down. Since no other spokes are directly

aected, you’re done. To move the rim down and to the side, you can tighten just

one spoke.

With a traditionally spoked wheel with a lateral deviation and no hop, you tighten

one spoke, loosen two, and tighten both of the third spokes slightly to balance the

tensions. Five spokes are needed to correct a slight deviation.

If a wheel is true laterally, but out of round, its easy to x with paired spokes. To

move the rim towards the hub, equally tighten both members of a pair.

Wheels built in our factory conform to a maximum vertical deviation of 0.4mm (0.015

inches). A 23c tire with 120 PSI will exhibit more out-of-roundness than this.

With an egg-shaped wheel where 0.3mm height change occurs over 1/2 of the wheel

rotation, the out-of-roundness may be invisible with a normal truing stand.

With paired spokes, the same 0.4mm vertical can show up over a very short section

of the rim. In either case, the rider will not feel it, nor will it eect the ride of the bike.

Consider the much greater magnitudes vertical change met by a rolling wheel. The

tire will be out of round by 1 to 2mm on a 23c tire, more as the casing gets bigger.

A rider sitting on the bike with that same 23c tire at 110PSI (7atm or bars) will

compress the tire by another 2-3mm. Needless to say, normal road surfaces have a

lot more variation than even these.

Adjust the wheel bearings

Most new bearings have a rapid break-in period where the adjustment will quickly

loosen. With this in mind, its better to have the bearings slightly tight on a new bike

so that they become properly adjusted after a ride or two. The alternative is to send

the hub out perfectly adjusted when new, where it will become loose after a ride or

two and without immediate readjustment, possibly damage the hub.

To adjust a front hub, rst loosen the locknut on one side. Then slightly loosen the

cone. On the opposite side of the hub, tighten the locknut against the cone until

they are locked together. Go back to the unlocked side of the hub, and tighten the

cone until nger tight. Tighten the locknut against the cone, and check for end play.

Readjust as necessary.

On rear hubs with a cassette, loosen the left locknut and un-thread the left bearing

until you can get a wrench on the right cone. Lock the right cone against its locknut,

and then adjust the hub from the left side.

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Trek 2012 Seite 66

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