Bedienungsanleitung Winora Algemene (Seite 104 von 140) (Englisch)

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14.3 Correcting the Fore-to-Aft position and

Tilt of the Saddle

The inclination of your upper body, and hence your riding comfort and

pedalling power, are also influenced by the distance between the grips of

the handlebars and the saddle (a). This distance can be altered slightly by

changing the position of the saddle rails in the seat post clamp. However,

this also influences your pedalling. Whether the saddle is positioned more to

the front or to the back of the bicycle will alter how rearward the pedalling

position of your legs is.

You need to have the saddle horizontal in order to pedal in a relaxed man-

ner. If it is tilted, you will constantly have to lean against the handlebars to

prevent yourself from slipping off the saddle.

The setting range of the saddle is very small. Replacing the

stem allows you to make far bigger adjustments to the rider’s

fore-to-aft position, as stems come in different lengths (b). In

doing so you may achieve differences of more than ten centi-

metres. In this case you usually would have to adjust the length

of the cables – a job best left to your bicycle dealer!

Note that the bolted connections of the seat post have to be

tightened to the prescribed tightening torques. Use a torque

wrench and never exceed the maximum tightening torque!

You will find the prescribed values in chapter “Recommended

Tightening Torques”, directly on the components and/or in the

manuals of the component manufacturers.

Make sure the saddle is not clamped in the curved sections of

the saddle rails (c).

14.3.1 Adjusting Saddle position and Tilt

With patent seat posts (d) a single bolt fixes the clamping mechanism, which

controls both the tilt and the horizontal position of the saddle. Some seat

posts have two bolts for a finer adjustment of the tilt.

Release one or both bolts at the top of the seat post. Turn the bolt(s) two

to three turns anticlockwise at the most, otherwise the whole assembly can

come apart.

Move the saddle forward or backward by sliding its rails in the loosened seat

post clamp. You may have to give the saddle a light tap to move it. Please

observe the markings on the saddle rail.

Make sure the seat of the saddle remains horizontal (a) as you retighten the

bolt(s). The bicycle should stand on level ground while you adjust the saddle.

Retighten the bolt(s) with a torque wrench according to the instructions of

the manufacturer. After fastening the saddle, check whether it resists tilting

by bringing your weight to bear on it once with your hands at either end of

the saddle (b).

Check the bolts by using a torque wrench once a month ac-

cording to the values indiated in the enclosed manuals or di-

rectly on the components.

14.4 Adjusting the Brake Levers and the

Handlebars

14.4.1 Adjusting the Brake Lever Reach of Road Racing

Bicycles

Riders with small hands should check the lever position at the point the

brake pads have first contact with the rim. This distance should be adjusted

by the bicycle dealer to the length of the rider’s fingers directly when buying

the bicycle. The models of some manufacturers allow an adjustment directly

at the brake lever. The adjustment of other models is performed by clamping

the cables at the brake itself. The knurled knob or nut (c) you will find there

is only to readjust the brake, if the brake pads wear out.

Be sure to check whether there is still enough slack for the brake levers to

move a little before the brake pads hit the rim (d). Check the point, front and

rear, at which the brake pads touch the rims. If this point is reached after the

lever has only travelled a short distance, you will have to readjust the brakes

(see chapter “The Brake System“). Otherwise the brakes could rub on the

rim, e.g. when you ride out of the saddle.

Make sure you cannot pull the brake levers all the way to the

handlebars. Your maximum brake force should be reached

short of this point!

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