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ENGLISH
saw is attached to, such as a table or workbench. When making a cut that may become
unbalanced, properly support the workpiece and ensure the saw is firmly bolted to a
stable surface. Personal injury mayoccur.
WARNING: The clamp foot must remain clamped above the base of the saw whenever
the clamp is used. Always clamp the workpiece to the base of the saw – not to any other
part of the work area. Ensure the clamp foot is not clamped on the edge of the base of
thesaw.
CAUTION: Always use a work clamp to maintain control and reduce the risk of personal
injury and workpiecedamage.
Use the material clamp provided with your saw. The left or right fence will slide from side to
side to aid in clamping. Other aids such as spring clamps, bar clamps or C-clamps may be
appropriate for certain sizes and shapes ofmaterial.
To Install Clamp
1. Insert it into the hole29 behind the fence. The clamp should be facing toward the back of
the mitre saw. The groove on the clamp rod should be fully inserted into the base. Ensure
this groove is fully inserted into the base of the mitre saw. If the groove is visible, the
clamp will not besecure.
2. Rotate the clamp 180° toward the front of the mitresaw.
3. Loosen the knob to adjust the clamp up or down, then use the fine adjust knob to firmly
clamp theworkpiece.
NOTE: Place the clamp on the opposite side of the base when beveling. ALWAYS MAKE DRY
RUNS (UNPOWERED) BEFORE FINISH CUTS TO CHECK THE PATH OF THE BLADE. ENSURE THE
CLAMP DOES NOT INTERFERE WITH THE ACTION OF THE SAW ORGUARDS.
Support for Long Pieces
ALWAYS SUPPORT LONGPIECES.
For best results, use the DE7023-XJ or DE7033-XJ leg stands to extend the table width of
your saw. Support long workpieces using any convenient means such as sawhorses or similar
devices to keep the ends fromdropping.
Cutting Picture Frames, Shadow Boxes and Other Four-Sided
Projects (Fig. R)
Try a few simple projects using scrap wood until you develop a “feel” for your saw. Your saw is
the perfect tool for mitring corners like the one shown in FigureR.
Sketch 1 in FigureR shows a joint made with the bevel adjustment method. The joint shown
can be made using eithermethod.
• Using bevel adjustment:
-
-
-
against thefence.
• Using mitre adjustment:
-
thefence.
Cutting Trim Molding and Other Frames (Fig. R)
Sketch 2 in FigureR shows a joint made by setting the mitre arm at 45° to mitre the two
boards to form a 90° corner. To make this type of joint, set the bevel adjustment to zero and
the mitre arm to 45°. Once again, position the wood with the broad flat side on the table and
the narrow edge against thefence.
The two sketches in FigureR are for four-sided objects only. As the number of sides changes,
so do the mitre and bevel angles. The chart below gives the proper angles for a variety of
shapes, assuming that all sides are of equallength.
Number of Sides Mitre or Bevel Angle
445°
536°
630°
725.7°
822.5°
920°
10 18°
For a shape that is not shown in the chart, use the following formula: 180° divided by the
number of sides equals the mitre (if the material is cut vertically) or bevel angle (if the material
is cut laying flat).
Cutting Compound Mitres (Fig. Q, R, S, Z)
A compound mitre is a cut made using a mitre angle and a bevel angle at the same time.
This is the type of cut used to make frames or boxes with slanting sides like the one shown in
FigureQ.
WARNING: If the cutting angle varies from cut to cut, check that the bevel lock knob and
the mitre lock handle are securely locked. These must be locked after making any changes
in bevel ormitre.
WARNING: The saw must be fixed on a base support when performing compound cuts to
prevent tip over. Refer to Bench Mounting and Fig.Z.
The chart shown below will assist you in selecting the proper bevel and mitre settings for
common compound mitrecuts.
Your saw has a built-in dust port26 that allows you to connect the supplied dust bag or a
shop vacuum system using either the AirLock™ system (DWV9000-XJ) or a standard 35 mm
dust extractorfitment.
WARNING: ALWAYS use a vacuum extractor designed in compliance with the applicable
directives regardig dust emission when sawing wood. Vacuum hoses of most common
vacuum cleaners will fit directly into the dust extractionport.
To Attach the Dust Bag
1. Fit the dust bag to the dust port26 ..
To Empty the Dust Bag
1. Remove dust bag from the saw and gently shake or tap the dust bag toempty.
2. Reattach the dust bag back onto the dust port26 .
You may notice that all the dust will not come free from the bag. This will not affect cutting
performance but will reduce the saw’s dust collection efficiency. To restore your saw’s dust
collection efficiency, depress the spring inside the dust bag when you are emptying it and tap
it on the side of the trash can or dust receptacle.
CAUTION: Never operate this saw unless the dust bag or D
WALT dust extractor is
in place. Wood dust may create a breathinghazard.
Basic Saw Cuts
If the slide feature is not used, ensure the saw head is pushed back as far as possible and the
rail lock knob24 is tightened. This will prevent the saw from sliding along its rails as the
workpiece isengaged.
Cutting of multiple pieces is not recommended but can be done safely by ensuring that each
piece is held firmly against the table andfence.
Straight Vertical Crosscut (Fig. A)
1. Set and lock the mitre arm at zero, and hold the wood firmly on the table and against the
fence16 .
2. With the rail lock knob24 tightened, turn on the saw by squeezing the trigger switch5 .
3. When the saw comes up to speed, lower the arm smoothly and slowly to cut through the
wood. Let the blade come to a full stop before raisingarm.
Sliding Crosscut (Fig. A, O)
When cutting anything larger than a 51 x 150mm (51 x 105mm at 45° mitre) workpiece, use
an out-down-back motion with the rail lock knob24 loosened.
1. Pull the saw out towardyou.
2. Lower the saw head down toward theworkpiece.
3. Slowly push the saw back to complete thecut.
Do not allow the saw to contact the top of the workpiece while pulling out. The saw may run
toward you, possibly causing personal injury or damage to theworkpiece.
Mitre Crosscut (Fig. P)
The mitre angle is often 45° for making corners, but can be set anywhere from zero to 50° left
or 60° right. Proceed as for a straight verticalcrosscut.
When performing a mitre cut on workpieces wider than 51 x 105mm that are shorter in
length, always place the longer side against thefence.
Bevel Cut (Fig. A, Y2)
Bevel angles can be set from 49° right to 49° left and can be cut with the mitre arm set
between 50° left or 60° right. Refer to the Features and Controls section for detailed
instructions on the bevelsystem.
1. Loosen the bevel lock knob28 , and move the saw to the left or right as desired. It is
necessary to move the fence16 to allow clearance. Tighten the fence adjustment
knob63 after positioning thefences.
2. Tighten the bevel lockfirmly.
At some extreme angles, the right or left side fence might have to be removed. Refer to Fence
Adjustment in the Adjustments section for important information on adjusting the fences
for certain bevelcuts.
To remove the left or right fence, unscrew the fence adjustment knob63 several turns and
slide the fenceout.
Grooving (Fig. A)
Your saw is equipped with a grooving stop35 , depth adjustment screw34 and wing
nut33 to allow for groovecutting.
• Flip the grooving stop35 towards the front of thesaw.
• Adjust the wing nut33 and depth adjustment screw34 to set the depth of the
groovecut.
Quality of Cut
The smoothness of any cut depends on a number of variables, such as the material being cut,
blade type, blade sharpness and rate ofcut.
When smoothest cuts are desired for molding and other precision work, a sharp (60 tooth
carbide) blade and a slower, even cutting rate will produce the desiredresults.
WARNING: Ensure that the material does not move or creep while cutting; clamp it
securely in place. Always let the blade come to a full stop before raising arm. If small
fibers of wood still split out at the rear of the workpiece, stick a piece of masking tape on
the wood where the cut will be made. Saw through the tape and carefully remove tape
whenfinished.
Clamping the Workpiece
WARNING: A workpiece that is clamped, balanced and secure before a cut may become
unbalanced after a cut is completed. An unbalanced load may tip the saw or anything the
