Bedienungsanleitung Stiga SP 375Q (Seite 39 von 460) (Alle Sprachen)

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• Bucking (Fig. 15)

Be careful of where the

branches are lying on the ground, the risk of

them being under tension, the direction the

branch may go during cutting and the risk of

the tree being unstable after the branch has

been cut.

1. Check the direction in which the branch is at-

tached to the tree

2. First cut on the side where the branch bends

and then finish cutting on the opposite side.

• Sawing logs (Fig. 16)

It is easier to saw a log using the spiked bumper.

1. Dig the spiked bumper into the log and use it as

a pivot. Cut with an arched motion to make the

bar penetrate the wood.

2. Repeat several times if necessary, changing

the point where you plant the spiked bumper.

• Sawing a log on the ground (Fig. 17)

Cut up to half the diameter, roll the log over and fin-

ishing sawing on the other side.

• Sawing a raised log (Fig. 18)

1. If you are sawing the overhanging end of a sup-

ported log (A), first cut a third of the diameter

from the bottom upwards, then finish from the

top.

2. If you are sawing between two supports (B),

cut a third of the diameter from the top down-

wards, then finish from the bottom.

Use a spiked bumper when cutting trees and thick

branches can ensure your safety and decrease

the branches can ensure your safety and decrease

the working strength and vibration level.

3. END OF OPERATIONS

When you have finished your work:

– Switch off the engine as indicated above

(Chap. 6).

– Wait for the chain to stop and allow the machine

to cool.

– Loosen the rod fastening nuts to reduce chain

tension.

– Remove any traces of sawdust or oil deposits

from the chain.

WARNING!

Stop the engine immedi-

ately if the chain stops during sawing. Beware

of kickback, which can occur if the bar con-

tacts an obstacle.

• Delimbing (Fig. 13)

Make sure there is nothing

or nobody in the area where the branches will

fall.

1. Stand opposite the branch you want to cut.

2. Start cutting lower branches followed by the

higher ones.

3. Cut downwards to prevent the bar from getting

jammed.

• Felling (Fig. 14)

When felling on slopes, al-

ways stand uphill from the tree and check that

the felled trunk cannot cause damage if it rolls

down the hill.

1. Decide where the tree should fall – you should

consider the wind, the natural lean of the tree,

the position of the heaviest branches and how

easy the work is after felling, etc.

2. Clear the area around the tree and find a stable

place to stand.

3. Plan obstacle-free escape routes at a 45° angle

back and away from the direction of fall. These

routes must allow you reach a safe area at a dis-

tance of about 2.5 times the length of the tree to

be felled.

4. On the side of the fall, mark a felling notch

around a third of the trunk’s diameter.

5. Cut the tree on the other side, slightly above the

bottom of the notch, leaving the uncut wood to

act as a “hinge” (1) of approx. 5-10 cm.

6. Reduce the thickness of this hinge without

pulling out the bar, until the tree falls.

7. In particular or unstable conditions, you can

complete felling by inserting wedges (2) on the

opposite side of the fall, and hitting them with a

hammer until the tree falls.

WARNING!

USING THE MACHINE 13

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